Did any of you have trouble with clutch slip new it was new? My new clutch seems ok when it,s cold,but as soon as it,s warm it,s like Bambi on ice.Any ideas The flywheel was turned. and cleaned before clutch was installed.Does it need to break in o No:
Break-in? How many miles do you have on your new clutch? I believe the instructions tell you not to really try it out for 450-500 miles. Mine doesn't slip at all. Maybe I am one of the lucky ones. John
With Mopars, you have to remove the big clutch pedal over center return spring under the dash, dont know if your car has one??? o No: Jim
Two different applications both trouble free. John is right about break in instructions but I have never done that either. In goes the clutch let the beating begin. Jim is correct too, if you have that spring (?) it has to come out. Adjustment? Correct throwout bearing? o No:
I didn't really do any kind of break in on mine when I put it in the Biscayne. I drove it thru the gears for maybe two miles and then commenced to beating it. My bet would be on the pedal spring too. :TU:
Make sure the free play is adjusted correctly to insure that the clutch is completely engaged. The clutch should never slip if adjusted correctly even if it is the first time driving it. A LONGSHOT possibilty is that you could have the clutch disk in backwards.
You can put the disk in backwards but chances are the spring package in the hub will bottom out against the fly wheel bolts. Talk to the centerforce tech guys, they're pretty good. GOOD LUCK! Jim
Guys Thanks for all the input. After a lot of head rubbing and swearing I,m taking it BACK a part and trying this again :af: I,m not sure what went wrong but it,s getting worse. This is centerforce number two (the first one lasted one week)and the presure plate failed. Then I went to a Zoom "heavy duty" It lasted one year. I,m not sure where the problem lies but I,m sure I can figure it out. Brad Rising had a CF DF in this 64 GTO I think it lasted 6 months. Thanks again in the mean time it,s off the Charlotte NC for a long week end . May move there someday :TU:
Noel: Are you using a factory bellhousing? When you have the clutch off it, measure the runout in the pilot bore that centers the transmission. Easy to do wit a magnet based indicator on the flywheel. Stock aluminum bellhousings are usually pretty good with the dowel pins controlling the positioning and the bolts only clamping it in place. If you're using a Lakewood, this is a must. They're all over the place. Someone's selling offset dowel pins that make centering these a whole lot easier than the weld on type. Also if a Lakewood, check the height of the pivot boss for the throwout fork. Maybe your Pontiacs just have too much power and our wimpy Olds, Merc, Buicks, and Mopars just aren't as "robust". :laugh: :laugh:
Noel, sorry to hear of your misfortune with a clutch I highly recommend. My '61 Vette had seven years of race time with the same CF DF. 13.60 with 3300lbs. Heck at the last Quaker city race I made 36 passes in the two days alone. That's nine miles of hard shifting over and over again. Casey told me it wasn't a circle track event. :laugh: I have that clutch on the shelf and am saving it for a future project. My '64 Merc at 4267lbs has three years on the same CF DF. I've looked at it twice during that time and it still looks and holds great. I could see you getting one bad one.....but two?
Thought this might help with the clutch trouble shooting. Jim http://www.performanceintl.com/centerforce.html#slippage
