Wipe 'em down a few times with a new clean rag/towel each time. You need to lift all the oils, etc off the surface. Basically white paper towels will work well as you can see the dirt and oils on them and when they come up clean you know you are getting there. Tack rag and/or compressed air to remove any lint buildup. Once you have them clean get something on them as soon as you can....bare metal like that can start rusting pretty quickly depending on the humidity, etc.
Well, this puller turned out to be pretty worthless in my case. It simply doesn't fit in properly and the jaws just pulled up the outside as I cranked on it. Jaws are a bit too wide. I used a bigger BFH with the pickle fork and they all separated fairly easily, so I have the whole assy off now. Now I find I somehow didn't order tie rods correctly, getting only 1 each inner and outer... ou: Time to order another set. My old idler arm has the zerk facing out to the side. My new one is from NAPA, made in the USA. It's a permanent assy with the support bracket, while the old one is a bolt-together unit. New one has what looks like a zerk hole facing DOWN. but the hole is NOT threaded. The box includes a new zerk, however. I can't see trying to install a zerk in a non-threaded hole... do you suppose this unit is NOT greasable? The instruction sheet states to intall zerk IF A GREASABLE DESIGN. I'd think it's non-greasable, but then why would they include a zerk? NAPA is only a minute away, I'm going to run over and question them.
I suspect you just thread the grease zerk in there if there's already a hole. The zerk should have pipe thread type threads and it will bite into the hole in the idler as you tighten it down. So....it's essentially a self-threading deal.
Interestingly, I have tie rods and idler arm zerk holes, some threaded and some are not... NAPA guy also thought it would thread in fine. Yes, it is tapered threads on the zerks.
Ok, thought I'd find some info in the chassis service manual regarding installation of new components, but nothing there. Seems it would be simplest to mount the new idler arm assy, pre-assemble the new centerlink and tie rods, then start bolting it all up in place. Comments/advice?
You can use your existing set up (if you kept it all assembled and/or removed it as a unit) to get a rough comparison of where to position each tie rod. Put it all together as a unit first and slip it all into place like you mention.
New steering assembled, installed, and street tested. Felt good on the street, but I need to open the service manual and see how to set it up properly.
David - You should take it into an alignment shop to have it correctly adjusted. Find one that does old cars and is used to the GM set up. Otherwise you can ruin your tires very quickly. - Bill
