a good window cleaner and newpaper should to the trick unless you have water spots from outspace or something thats all we have use for years
Careful with that 3M Bob. We almost asphyxiated ourselves using that to clean the vinyl adhesive off the car when we pulled the top. And that was completely outdoors, most of the time with a mask.
I've had good luck by scrubbing the glass down with very fine steel wool and glass cleaner, and then after it's dry I use Rain-x......but I'm not all that fussy really. Thanks, now you guys got me looking for water spots on my glass!! LOL
the 0000 ultra fine steel wool and acetone should work. I've detailed for about 5 years now and it has worked on every problem water spotted glass I've run into. But I try everything before that because acetone is mean stuff. Try a magic clay bar on the glass or a razor blade and warm diluted white vinegar, and if those don't work I go to the acetone. Just a note, some times very hard water can actually slightly etch glass if left on for to long, especially in direct sun light. If you can't get them off this might be the reason. :beer
Problem Solved - Finally Hi Everyone, Well, I solved my NUCLEAR STRENGTH WATERSPOT problem yesterday. I took some 0000 Steel Wool and started polishing a small test area. It does work and the spots were coming off but it required ALOT of pressure and work. It took about 15 minutes to complete a 10" circle area. So, being lazy as I am and thinking of other alternatives I decided to try an aviation windscreen polishing kit I had bought last year at Sun-N-Fun. It comes with 4 different polishing compounds, 2 different polishing pads and the wheel to connect to the drill. You also use a spray botle with water to keep the abrasives in suspension. I used the #3 polishing abrasive and the "fine" pad. It worked like a charm and took 30 minutes to complete the entire windsheild. It came out PERFECT!! I will now do the rear window as it has some spots also but they're not nearly as bad as the front. I tried taking pictures of before and after but I can't get a good focus with the digital on the glass, it wants to focus on the reflected images. Anyhow, PROBLEM SOLVED!!! Thanks for all the help....
Rob- Exterior is washed, dried, waxed. I use a soft bristle tooth brush to get wax out of the seams, emblems, etc. Glass is polished with Barkeepers Friend and papertowels. After it (the car) dries, run around with hobby paint (Testors) and small brushes to touch up areas that need it. Rims come off and get cleaned on both the backside and front. Backside is polished with (usually) chrome cleaner. Interior I use 303, Q-tips, soft bristle paint brushes (to get into the nooks-around the vents, etc), papertowels, and barkeepers friend for glass (mild powder). Carpet comes out. Seats out. When those were out, tracks are lubed and parts are touched up with Testors (hobby) paints and small brushes. Engine/ chassis are also cleaned, touched up, degreased and lubed. Then I go out for 30 mins or so and clean off all the water spots/ etc. that flew out of those 'hard to get' areas. This sounds a bit 'over the top', but it is a good way to keep the car clean and find potential problems- rust, loose / missing parts, etc.
Wow, pulling the carpet and seats out every year is a bit excessive. No, it's mental compulsive.:shock: But to each their own.
I've heard of using the clay bar for cleaning water spots and removing that gritty feel that comes with an old windshield. Anyone else do this?
Re: Problem Solved - Finally glad you finally got those hard spots out! now time to keep it under cover or wash with filtered water (like mr.clean autodry kit) if you wash at the home (may have hard water) ive made the mistake of washing outside about 2 weeks ago and not wiping the water off right away.... my entire buick is COVERED with water spots from the hard water from my well uzzled:. I dread the day I decided to clean it up for spring and have to spend a full day polishing them all out. I may just have a good shop detail the outside and save myself the trouble p
