Hi i am doing some paint work on my wagon and the clear seems to have turned yellow in spots,making the wedgewood blue go green,is this because of too much clear or ?o No: The clear is mixed with right amount of hardener.I have never run into this before,any answers welcome,thanks...Darren
Most likely the paint is turning another color because of the hardner used in body filler is bleeding out and causing the discoloration.This is fairly common when a non stain free bondo/body filler is used;especially when the car was painted without useing a sealer before paint.Light colors of course are more likely to "stain". To avoid this problem always use a stain free body fillers/bondo,use the blue creme hardner for your bondo rather than the red,always strip to bare metal any red painted body parts if you are painting the car white or a lite color as red paint can cause stains as well,always use a paint sealer to seal car before applying color.if your paint is truely stained there is no cure other than refinishing the car and if cuased by body filler it would be best to remove it and replace with a stain free filler because if you just repaint car it can still come back again.
The thing that is strange is its doing this in spots where there is no bodyfill and it was stripped to bare metal then primed with a etching primer,the old paint was the original laquer paint.The clear is a better quality and the base is good quality also. o No:
You said the magic words, "etch primer". If this was a Chromate containing etch primer that chromate will bleed thru and show up in light colors. If it was not sealed off with a good sealer or surfacing primer, it WILL bleed thru. This chromate bleeding is YELLOW. If it were plastic filler bleeding it would be the color of the hardener which is red or blue. This isn't a big concern these days because most all manufacturers have gone to non-staining technologies and blue hardener which is far less staining. Either that or the clear was applied heavier there. If the guy who painted it didn't have good spray techniques you end up with more material here and there. This is common at the seam of two panels for instance. You spray the hood, then you spray the fender and at the point where they meet you are actually applying twice as much material. Brian
Thanks Brian,It was a Chromate containing etch primer and i did not seal it between the primer and base,good thing it was only the roof section.It is also a light colour.I will make sure i seal between the two on the rest of the car.And it is turning it greenish which would be the yellow chromate with the Wedgewood blue ou: ,thanks for info I will know better next time...Darren
Yeah, etch should really be top coated with an epoxy or urethane. SOME tech sheets will have recommendations for painting directly over the etch and I have seen hundreds of gallons shot that way. But that was on service trucks and trailers where you were looking to save a buck. On your car, just apply a few coats of urethane over the etch about an hour later and you don't even have to sand it. Then sand the urethane smooth and paint. If you end up with a sand thru here and there, you are best to apply a sealer, but even then you could base right over the sand thrus as long as they are the smaller than the size of about a dime. But if you have a lot, just seal it. Brian
