I was hoping that someone could tell me what the proper voltage should be on the positive side of the coil. I just recently installed a Mallory conversion kit, with a MSD Blaster 2 coil, and since then, after the engine sits for an hour or so ...NO Spark !!!!!!:af: With everything hooked up as directed, I have 6 volts at he ballast resister, and 3 at the coil. Disconnecting the ignition wire I do get 12. IS this normal?o No: Adam
are you running points? if so, i believe 6 volts is about normal at the coil. you'll have to clarify your numbers...3v at the coil post? and then is the 6v at the ballast resistor on the incoming or outgoing terminal? if you're saying what i believe you are, it sounds like you're running through a stock resistor wire AND a seperate ballast resistor, which is dopping the voltage too low.
David, I removed the points and installed a conversion kit from Mallory. To clarify my readings.. 6v on the incoming line to the balast resistor 3 volts on the positive terminal of the coil and out going of the resistor. Every now and again, it will start and once it does, it runs great. Idles fine, plenty of power and throttle response. If the voltage was too low it shouldn't un at all....right? When it is running 9 volts on the incoming 6-7 on the outgoing and coil Positive I tried removing the ballast resistor, but still nothing. Something else unusal - Once i have cranked it over for a few seconds and turn the key back to "OFF" the engine will turn another 15 degrees or so. Weird? Never did that. Thanks for the help. Adam
this might be helpful also http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24870&highlight=mallory+unilite
Since you are not running points, I think you should have +12v like GM HEI units to the coil. Maybe Mallory specifies something different. Possible your coil is bad?
Be Careful!! I would be careful putting 12 volts on your unilite system it will definately shorten the life of the module. Read the instructions and Mallory warns against this. Have you checked your ground points? Is your engine -WELL- grounded to the fire wall? You need good grounding with electronic even more so than with points.
Why do you have a ballast resistor on a GM car that uses a resistor wire to power the coil? Did you connect the resistor bypass wire from the starter? If this is wired the way I "think" you've done it, I'm amazed it starts and runs. Engine running: 13.5-15.5 volts at the battery. Resistor wire drops this to about 9 volts at the coil. You have an extra resistor, though, (Why??) that drops it to 6. NOT ENOUGH. Engine off, cranking: You have 9-11 volts at the battery. The resistor bypass wire would supply the coil with that same 9-11 volts, but yours is disconnected. The resistor wire drops this to about 6 volts to supply the coil. You've got it running through another resistor that drops it to 3 volts, and the car won't start. Does this sound about right? Lose the extra resistor, and connect the resistor bypass wire from the R terminal at the starter.
Schurkey WHen I checked the voltage at the coil prior to installing the Unilate Module, I had 12V with the engine running. That's why i installed the ballast resistor as required by Mallory. IT my be possible that my original wire is "GOing Bad" ad is dropping out which is allowing the car to run, then coming back, dropping the voltage making the thing shut down. I will chaeck that resistor off the starter and go from there. It never seems to do it while it is in my driveway.....only when I a miles from home. Thanks for the tip. Adam
It's not a resistor off the starter, the wire from the R terminal on the starter is a non-resistor feed direct to the coil during cranking...so it's a resistor BYPASS. Perhaps you need to install a new, non-resistor ignition lead from the fusebox, to your ballast resistor and then to the coil, so the original resistor wire is no longer in the circuit.
On GM cars that originally had points and you are still using the original wire harness, do NOT use a seperate Ballast resistor. There is a resistor wire in the original harness, it can be identified visually, it will look like it is cloth covered. When the car is running you should have approx. 9.6 volts at both sides of the coil. The green wire (neg side of the coil) is the one that needs protection from the 12 volts. Again if you are using the original wiring, the resistor bypass will still work like original. When the key is turned to Start, the yellow wire at the starter will provide momentary 12 volts. And when the car is running it will go down to the 9.6 volts. A Mallory installation on the `74 and earlier cars is very simple and straight forward (even though the diagrams make it look more complicated). RED wire to Coil + GREEN wire to Coil - BROWN wire to source of ground on the engine. On Buicks, one of the 1/4 x 20 water pump bolt works great. That is the entire installation. Dave
