But would 50CFM really make that much of a difference??? If folks can run a small 650 on a 350 [ stock is 750] surley a BB can handle a 750 no ehy??? Just asking.
Matt, It's not the CFM difference at all. A big block needs more air at idle than a small block. The big block carburetor has different idle system calibrations. In addition, it has what's called a fixed idle air bypass. This allows extra air to bypass the throttle blades so the engine can idle with a smaller throttle opening. If you look at a Buick chassis manual in the Q-jet chapter, it explains how the system works. A big block Q-jet is just the ticket for a 350 with a wild cam though. Extra air at idle fits the bill.
Thanks, Everyone! It is an 800 cfm Q-Jet, and I can tell you right now that the primary throttle plates are open a lot more than "just a hair" in order to get the engine to idle. I've tried some plates with a hole in 'em, and it did help the mpg, but as I said, the throttle has been opened quite a bit to get the car to idle. I know the balancer is dead on. The only thing that worries me is that I was showing above 12" advance at 800 rpm before my timing light hit the fan. Another thing worries me, until I get a bigger cam, I guess I'll have to hang out with guys who have smaller cams. -Gabe
Gabe, Mark the distributor and timing cover so you can return to the current timing. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and rotate the distributor counter clockwise. Reduce the idle speed setting. See if you can get it to idle with the smallest throttle opening. Keep advancing the timing until you can get it to idle at about 900 RPM in neutral. See if the exhaust still smells gassy.
Gabe just out of curiousity what is the altitude in Sweet Home. I don't know if its high enough to make a difference but its up there aways. Good Luck Bob H.
OK Larry not enough to make a big difference. For some reason I thought it was higher than that. Thats what I get for doing my own thinking.:laugh: Bob H.
It was a good thought:grin: I didn't know where Sweet Home was either, so I Googled it.:laugh: :Comp:
Buick Special, I thought this also. However, Gabe has said that the power piston is being held down at idle. I think a second set of eyes is needed to take a fresh look. If I lived close, I'd take a look. If you can, that would be great. Gabe has stated the the idle speed screw needs to be turned in quite a bit for the engine to idle, and the mixture needles are unresponsive. I'm thinking he's idling on the mains (nozzle drip) Maybe you can check his timing for him at idle. I think his light had a close encounter with the engine fan and it doesn't work.
That's my guess. But why he has to open the throttle that far to idle is the real culpret. This is interesting. I hope we get it nailed because I think we can all learn from this one. And yeah, check the fuel pump. If you have that much fuel in the oil, then either it is washing off the cylinder walls or leaking from the pump. I'd seriously consider changing that oil daily if you plan to run it a lot to fix this. You don't want to burn the crank bearings from thinned oil.
I think if you look down the carb as the engine is running, you will probably be able to see raw fuel dripping or feeding into the air stream. Whether it is the high float level or nozzle drip, it has to be something along those lines. Let us know what you find.:TU:
Thanks again for all of the advice. I was able to take a look early this morning before work. In the primary bores while the engine was idling, I'm getting big drips of fuel from the nozzles. With the slightest provocation, the accelerator pump quirts gas into the chamber. It is very sensitive. If I touch the throttle linkage without changing the rpm's, it'll squirt. Both of these combined is resulting in gas pooling on the throttle plates. It's all raw fuel. No break up or atomization at all. It sure is good to finally see something concrete relating to this problem. I'm not able to get the rpm's that much higher by advancing the timing, so changing the angle of the throttle plates may take some more work. At least now there is an indication of what my problem might be. It would be good to have another set of eyes take a look. Especially someone who knows Buicks. So far the advice I've gotten locally has been "shoulda' put inna crate motor"! Thanks, Gabe
Well, there you go. Either the float level is wrong(it's flooding), or you need more timing and less throttle opening, because you are getting nozzle drip. Tell your local advice that this could happen with a crate engine also.
I find it difficult to believe it is a straight carb problem because he said he's tried 3 different carbs. I doubt all 3 of them could have the exact same problem. This sounds like a timing issue or a vacuum leak. I say replace the intake gasket and see what happens.
I know its a 455 but Im the king of timing problems, and never came across that. Has to be some what carb, unless he just has to much fuel pressure, why all 3 carbs were leaking ehy? Though either way we are all bound to learn something from it.
Matt, Google "Q-jet Nozzle Drip", or look in the Doug Roe book. If the timing is too far retarded, the engine needs more throttle opening to idle. Open it too far with the idle speed screw and the engine starts to draw fuel from the primary venturi feeds. That's nozzle drip, and it is a common problem. The primary side of the Q-jet with it's triple venturi is very efficient. Doesn't take much to activate it. At that point, the engine isn't idling on the idle system of the carb, it's idling on the mains.
Ahhhh ok I get what you mean. [you need to help me wrap my brain around my problem.] {Nozzle drip, not just an old mans problem }