Looking for durability when I paint my sandblasted front control arms . What's the high durability paint resto guys are using these days ?
Van sickle tractor paint with hardener added. Satin black. You can find it at most farm supply stores
I always go with gloss with stuff like this. The higher the gloss the better it is I say. Years ago I learned that when it comes to paints and finishes the higher the gloss the harder and more durable the finish will be. Just keep in mind that a high gloss sheen will dull down naturally to a semi gloss or satin in 6 months to a year or so. Keith
Powder coated mine. I used POR 15 before with good results too. If you use POR15 be sure to coat it (before it dries completely) with a UV block clear. I use a satin sheen clear.
Sandblasted and ready for coating . Going with the POR 15 which I happen to have on hand from a previous project .
I'm going to be doing this very same thing in the next few weeks. I'm using the Viking epoxy paint system. I just need to figure out the formula for the proper sheen.
JW posted his procedure once upon a time, maybe 2005. I've used the Viking paints. It's easy to mix and spray and gives great results. The resulting sheen can vary depending on weather conditions, you'll have to do some test spray outs. For underhood sheetmetal, I switched to a Sherwin Williams semi-gloss urethane as results are more consistent and produces a blacker black than the Viking epoxies, which look a little washed out. >>>> Viking Paints Inc 100 W 78th ST Richfield, MN 55423 Phone (612) 866-1212 Tennaco #70 Gloss black, #900 Satin/Flat Black. gloss and flat/satin catalysts. Per JW Frame- 900 and Flat catylist control arms, rear end and all the sheetmetal.. (everything, including core support, inner fenders, firewall, floors ect.. I like to go with about a 15% mixture of the gloss catylist, replacing the flat.. My actual procedure is 4 oz black, 2 tablespoons gloss catalyst, and then use the flat to fill to your 1-1 paint/catalyst ratio. Let that mixture sit for a minimum of 30 minutes, and then thin to a sprayable consistency with virgin lacquer thinner.. try just about an ounce or two of thinner to begin with, you can always add more. Don't get it too thin as it will affect your coverage ability. Here, with my digital Sata gun, I spray the primer/catalyst at 14 psi at the gun, and then the black at about 18.. but that will depend on what your spraying it with. I apply one full wet coat of the primer, let it flash, and then apply 2 wet coats of the paint, with about 10 minutes of flash time between coats. Spray at the right pressure, with the gun about 12-15" from the surface, and overspray is virtually non-existant. A very good product to apply in your garage, but you should of course protect your painted surfaces from hitting them with the gun. <<<<
Thanks, Walt... I actually have that exact same quote from JW printed off and in my box of viking paint. I did a core support with the same formula about 10 years ago and it just seemed a bit too glossy. It does spray very nice, though.
