I am putting a 455 in a '72 Skylark that has a 350 w/AC in it now. If I run synthetic oil and install an extra engine oil cooler, can I use the 350 radiator? I want to retain the AC.
I would think you'd need a good 3 or 4 core dadiator. I think the 350 cars just had a small 2 or 3 core. I got a hi-efficiency 4-core built at a radiator shop for @$200. My car has never overheated.
In my opinion - 455 plus AC = 4-core radiator. Also, you might want to consider an electric pusher fan to help out the mechanical fan. But, get an electric fan that doesn't block airflow when it isn't running (i.e. unshrouded). Also, RMI-25 + distilled water + water wetter is a lot better than the typical antifreeze combination, if freezing is not an issue. -Bob Cunningham
Poston's sells a new 4-core radiator for $225. http://www.postonbuick.com/eshop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=PE365 This place on ebay sells a bunch of aluminum radiators. I'm sure you'd find one to fit your application for $160. And an aluminum radiator is @ 30% more efficient. Don't forget about one with a trans cooler. Or you can get a separate one for about $100 for a complete kit. http://motors.search.ebay.com/radia...tionZcompareQQcopagenumZ1QQcoentrypageZsearch If you want to go with an electric fan and eliminate the mechanical one, the one to get is the Flex-a-lite 295 fan. Here's a link to their web site. This is THE fan to get for our cars and you will never overheat with this thing. You will need an alternator to handle it though. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html
Cheep Buick- You are going to need to do more than just pop that engine in, you know that, right? The 350's fan is a straight direct drive from the water pump, the 455 doesn't use that type. You need a clutch controlled fan. probably on the engine already, but that also brings up the fan shroud size- the 350's fan shroud isn't right, and don't believe anything about the shroud you have being "OK" to cool that 455. It's important to have the right shroud, and use it. I have talked to otherwise intelligent car guys who firmly beleive their cooling problems were solved by removing the fan shroud. It's just not so. The shroud's purpose is not to protect your hands. You really want to replace that fan clutch with a new unit. The fan should spin one full turn, roughly, when cold and the engine off, if you spin it by hand. if it pinwheels...well, you're going to overheat in traffic. the fan itself should have which direction faces the engine stamped right on one side, so when you take it off to replace the clutch (it's easier now, trust me), there's no question about which way it goes Definitely use your overflow tank with that system. Don't let anyone tell you it just holds "extra" coolant. It's not extra, it's an integral part of your cooling system. the radiator needs to purge to and draw from that tank, otherwise, you're pulling in air at atmospheric pressure and defeating the purpose of your radiator cap, which is to raise the boiling point of the coolant by keeping the system at greater than atmospheric pressure Your old 2-core radiator isn't going to cut it. For one thing, it doesn't hold enough coolant, and for another, it's old and clogged up, further reducing your cooling efficiency It's cheaper to do it right, once, the first time :TU: Take that advice from someone who's been driving his same 1970 Buick as a daily driver 6 months a year since 1997 (and year round before that, from 1989) and has tried just about every corner-cutting measure imagineable to 'save money'. It cost me twice as much money and time to fix my jury-rig solutions
Chris is right on. I just "upgraded" to the right radiator as the 350 unit didn't work (only june, July & August, but who drives the car then). Would boil over everytime I stopped. You can get an aftermarket "puke tank". Won't look right, but will function correctly. Jim '69 GS California 455 Stage 1/Muncie 4spd/3.31 posi "Passes everything but gas stations" Formerly 350-4 & auto (just like everyother GS Cali)
Here's my 2 cents... Previous posts are correct. If you want to keep the AC, you should use a 4-core unit. Without AC, you could use a 3-core. 455 engines produce some serious heat and you're only asking for trouble if your radiator can't get rid of it. My 455 came with a 3-core, which was OK until I started playing around under the hood. On summer days the gauge would just creep up everytime I got on the throttle. Upgraded to a 4-core and have never had another problem. It's probably better to do it right the first time. The extra expense is worth the peace of mind. Paul
As far as I know, the 3 core was the best you could get from the factory- no 4 cores from Buick. Makes you wonder how close to overheating a lot of these cars were for years
Chris: I had no idea Buick never had a 4-core. That may explain why my car came with a 3-core! When I changed it out, I used a 4-core from a Cadillac because the trans cooler line was 3/8". Been workin' fine ever since. Paul
New Overflow Tanks Also... Just found these last night. They look real nice! http://www.buickperformance.com/Overflow.htm Paul
Thanks Thanks for all the help,guys. I have found a 4 core locally for $140, new with a one year guarantee and have ordered one. Also, I'm getting a Universal Cooler from Summit that cools both the engine and transmission oils for a little extra protection. Might throw in a can of Water Wetter also.
