I don't quuite get it though? If the cap is not tight or the pressure inside is greater than the cap is rated, wouldn't the cap seep and you'd see it?? This whole theory is confusing me, although I'm sure it makes perfect sense once you understand it.
There are 2 seals on a radiator cap. The first one seals the outer edge of the cap to the radiator filler neck, this keeps the radiator from loosing coolant at the the filler neck. There is also a second seal on a radiator cap, it is on the spring loaded piece on the underside of the cap. This seal goes further down into the filler neck. The tension of the spring allows pressure to build in the cooling system But when the pressure gets to a certain point, it will push up on the spring allowing excess pressure/coolant to vent to the burp/overflow tank. The first seal prevents the coolant from leaking past the filler neck and forces it through the little hose to the overflow tank ...simple. A properly working system will allow the coolant to flow to and from the overflow tank as needed. If the second seal on the cap is bad--the system will not hold adaquate pressure, allowing the coolant to boil. Which is very bad. Or if the spring on the cap is weak it will bleed off preesure as well. If the first seal is bad, then there would be a visible leak at the filler neck. Hope this helps Ken. :TU:
I tried t-stat games and all I've ever done is change my around town coolant temperature, not the range. If my t-stat was 160*, I'd see 160-210*F. Now that my t-stat is 180* I see 180* to 210*F. I am fairly sure that you will never fix an overheating problem by lowering your t-stat temp. I had rationalized that the coolant could get to the radiator that much quicker, but the t-stat is open waaayyy before 160*- just not fully open, my rationalization was wrong I really feel that if you must run a 160* t-stat to help an overheating problem, you have not found the real problem
A lower temp t-stat CAN help operating temps a little but not a whole lot, if any. It depends on the manner of driving. If you have long duration, sustained speeds at relatively low RPM levels, it could help keep temps down a little. Also, a lower temp t-stat will cause the temp to rise a little slower, initially. Alot of this is also dependant on ambient air temperature. In winter, there is a big difference in t-stats. When I ran a 160* t-stat, in the winter, I would freeze my butt off because the coolant wasn't getting hot enough to make heat in the heater core. Depends a lot on driving habits and weather conditions. Generally speaking, a 180* t-stat is the way to go. If an engine is running hot with a 180* t-stat, a 160* t-stat won't do squat. Just my thoughts and experiance. :TU:
Well that's my point, that a 160* t-stat will not make the problems you would experience, if you had an overheating problem with a 180* t-stat, just go away. I never had an issue with my 160* t-stat except for the fact that 160* is too cool for a street car, low heater output, not the most efficient temperature to run at, etc
wonder if i could use a V6 shroud form a 80's le sabre? they practically touch the engine.anyone got one?
Thermostat opens at 160 degrees and lets coolant flow at that temperature as opposed to say, 180 degree.
An engine won't run cooler unless the thermostat lets it. A 160 thermostat will start to open at 160*. It will be fully open at 180*. A 180* thermostat will start to open at 180*, and be fully open at 200*. The thermostat that came stock in the 70-72 Buick V-8's opened at 190*, it wasn't fully open until 212*. Something to think about.
So I Should Dump My 195 Stat,and Use A 160 Or 180? Am Not Running Heater, So Which One Would I Benifit The Most From?
With a 195* T'stat, the engine will want to run at around 200* Is that too warm for you? If it is try the 180* Personally, I don't like cooling temps above 190, but that's just me. It's up to you.
well, 200 is a bit much for me, what could i expect if i try a 160* and what brand of t-stat is best? would a heavy duty be better??
It all depends on how good your radiator, fan and shroud are. I have a Griffen aluminum radiator, and the 7 blade fan with correct shroud. I have a 160 T'stat, and my temps in the winter settle around 170*. In the summer, 175-185 tops. With a 3 or 4 core brass copper radiator in good shape, figure 180* or so. The high flow balanced T'stats are the best. They are made by Mr. Gasket, and Be-cool. Take a look here: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=6856&prmenbr=361
larry,the radiator is a 4 row copper/brass, brand new. new stock fan,will buy new fan clutch.shroud is the stock 84 le sabre shroud (from the orig 307 olds engine) seeking one out of a V6 car(they are much wider) i think i'll try the 160*
