couple of wiring questions

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by 1970/skylark, Mar 6, 2003.

  1. 1970/skylark

    1970/skylark Well-Known Member

    whats up guys i have a couple of problems one is my parking lights and rear lights won't come on when i turn on thelights but when i turn on the blinkers or put m foot on the brakes the work.#2 I have a brand new battery,alternator,and a starter(used) when i cut my car off if i don't disconnect the battery if i let it sit for 5 or 6 hours the battery will go dead, was doing the same thing before i changed all parts:confused:
     
  2. JTY

    JTY 1969 Buick Skylark

    Sounds like you have a short somewhere, or something else is still drawing power when the car is off.
     
  3. 1970/skylark

    1970/skylark Well-Known Member

    wiring

    how do you find where your shortage is coming from what kind of a device do i use to check it
     
  4. tlivingd

    tlivingd BIG BLOCK, THE ANTI PRIUS

    wiring harness

    check the wireing harness in the rear bumper
    first check the rubber plug that goes thru the trunk into the bumper (you can get to the plug from the inside of the trunk on the drivers side above the rear tail lights)

    next if that checks ok visually go into the harness in the rear bumper.
    (you can pull most of it out once taking off the lightbulbs from the underside and pull the pass side thru the licenceplate location. I had a bad bulb in there that caused my parking lights not to work but if i hit the brakes all of the parking lights would come on (front too) make sure you have the correct style of bulb (two contacts) if you have the wrong bulb it can cause a short.

    next check the drivers side.

    there is no easy tool to find your problem. it is just going to take some time. also check all of the grounds that maybe there. along the way.

    Nate
     
  5. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    battery drain

    u will need a voltage/amp meter , preferably digital but analogue will work . disconnect the negative battery cable & attach the leads from the meter , one to the negative battery terminal & the other to the negative cable end. select the amp meter so that u can measure/see the amperage draw . by reading the meter u should be able to see how much the draw is . u may have to use different amperage (milli-amps) if u see no draw . if u have a reading, then u start removing fuses from the fuse block until u find the defective circuit/hardware attached to it .
    i have had to perform this operation on several cars that i have owned in the past that had a problem similar to yours .
    here is what i found - on 2 occasions i discovered bad power antenna motors that would not switch off as the plastic push rod that elongates & depresses the antenna had broken & the motor kept running . found a defective ignition switch . found a defective underhood switch that would not shut off when the hood closed & also found a defective trunk light switch .
    other possiblities - bad clock, shorted wiring , backup lights that stay on (backup light switch fried), glove box light that does not shut off when the lid is closed , etc.......
    hope this helps .
    gerry
     

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