crane cam kit

i know i need the point kit here
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...goryId=17863&parentCategoryId=11563&langId=-1

with part #270-99601-1

i have 70 riv all stock and looking ping away the ping ! i put the pertronix pick up in the dist. but did not put in a new coil , so i am going to put in the coil regap the plugs to 45 or 50 and the advance kit and go for it . i just read that carb could be a factor in the ping it did come from the palisades , ca and i live in orlando,fl . ... this is the right kit i am lookoing for right?

thanks
justin

 

Just make sure the rubber or metal bushing is installed on the distributor peg in the advance slot. If this is missing this will cause to much advance and lots of ping. Very common for this to be missing especially on warm weather cars.

 

ok i guess mine is missing cause i dont see and rubber or metal bushing there anywhere , the ping is is when you hit it getin on it it pings it runs really good but i have never really open it up yet cause it pings .. ok i am ordering the kit right now

i retuned the carb alittle and maybe helped out a bit not on the pinging though , you can hear the secondaries open sooner i think . and i guess i need a better timing light to time it one with dial on it and a dwell meter i think it is for the rpm , so i looked to make a mark for timing degree of 30* and ibring it back down line 1 3/4 inchs like back towards me and that is my new line to time with while running part throttle for full advance so i can get it to 34 or 36 something likr that .. hmmm its is alittle confusing but i will fiqure it out some how

 

New Mark should be 1 3/4" clockwise away from original mark. Mark them both with yellow paint line and put a yellow dot on both sides of new line to tell them apart. You do not really need dial back but just borrow someones and compare to yours to see if it is accurate. If you are pinging start with about 8-10 initial. Make sure all plugs are good and use the highest octane you can find all the time. pinging should not be problem if set up right. Also how is the operating temp? High temps cause lots of detonation. Check thermostat. I bet it is a 195. Way too hot. try a 180 degree or even 160. Sometimes 160 is too cool. Is the fan clutch operating properly. Lots of things to check here.

 

Also to power time engine if you start with 10 degrees initial with the vacuum advance hose plugged rev the engine by hand and if the new mark moves up and stops at the 0 mark on the tab this is 30 deg total if it is 2 then 32 degrees etc. You usually want about a 20 degree spread between initial and total. If that bushing is missing you may have a greater spread and this test will show that. Also when the mark stops this is th rpm total timing is all in by. You need a remote tach to watch this as you are working under the hood.

 

i read over the sticky Power Timing . ALOT and i made a yellow crayon mark at the 1 3/4 and reved it up. the new mark moved up and to 4 with me really reving high i do belive it maxed out at the 4* mark. i did this with vaccum off too. then i went for a test drive and it stilled pinged . ok i took off my brand new vaccum canister and cut an 1 inch peice of metal with an angle on one side and made my own limiter and set it about half of the throw ,reinstalled and went for a test drive and wala PINGING IS GONE .

i still feel as if i need the springs to full mechanical advance earlier. can i just get the springs? i have been looking around and have found just the kits.

i did install the point conversion kit and ever since the does not start well. with the points in the car fired up faster the new truck , cold, hot it did not matter vroom there it is . i installed the pertonix conversion and it vroom real quick and it turns over like ten times before it fires . its almost embaressing and it makes me worry that it is not going to start . you should see my girlfriend face when it just turns and turns . whatcha youall think ?

?

thanks
i am happy bout that ping

 

The Pertronix kits are flukey and sometimes need th be phased just right to work. Is the gap OK? how about the clearance at the gear? Did you install neww washers to reduce the gap between the gear and dist body? I think Crane or someone else also makes points elimination kits as well. For advance just experiment with different wieghts and springs. Also the advance limiter I was talking about was in the peg that goes thru the advance hole plate and is visible underneath and is easier to feel than see. also try kicking up the timing and disonnect the vacuum and driving around without it after you put in advance kit.

 

Pertronix kits need 12 volts to work properly. Therefore if you are using the stock ignition wire to the coil you are only getting 9 volts while running. You will need to use a jumper wire from a source that is activated with the ignition key to get 12 volts to the coil.

There have been mixed results with the pertronix kits that use the points dwell cam on the distributor shaft to activate the unit. I personally have tried this one with no luck.

I use the original version with the large magnetic ring that fits under the rotor cap with a 12 volt feed source with no problems.

 

I have tried both as well. The magnetic ring type worked right away and the type that worked off the shaft did not work period, so I returned it!

 

thank you very much David Hemker for the info on the jumper wire . that is golden info , the car fires right up now! i had over started it the first time. now i will install the curve kit and unleash the power.

acuttaly thanks you all

justin


where did you get the 12 v source from ?

 

I have used one of the extra pins on the fuse box that is switched with the key. Use a 12 gauge wire.

Lately I have been pulling the engine harness and retaping it to make it look like new once again. Before I wrap the wires I follow the coil feed wire back to the fuse box and pull it out of the connector box, then I install a 12 gauge wire in the vacated plug to feed the coil. I leave the original wire in the harness in case I decide to go back to points some day in the future. I disconnect the yellow wire from the R terminal on the starter and tape it. When running 12 volts to the coil this wire is no longer needed, it's sole purpose is to supply 12 volts to the points for starting. If you are not going to go back to points just remove the whole resistor wire along this yellow wire from the harness.

Remember to use a 12 gauge wire to feed the coil, anything smaller will have too much voltage drop and not work properly.

 

i could not find a 12v source that stayed 12v while i was starting . everything would shut off while starting so i ran a hot from the battery to a switch then to the coil . so i guess i have a security system must turn on switch to start and turn off switch to turn off the car .


but for that it now starts better ...

so i installed a new tach today and triple gauges too.

i now know what rpm i am running at and idle is at 600 maybe 650 i moved it up to 800 and it just seems high ?

 

There is a male terminal in the center of the fuse box that is switched with the key. This one will work.

 

Set the idle at 650 in drive. It will usually go to 800 + - when in park or neutral which is ok.

 

i tried the center one it already had a wire comeing out of it i tested and everything . when i went to start the wire lost about 75% of power , thought i had a bad connection , checked and all . 3 or 4 times . i really thought that would work . i mean its probly operator error . there is no rust or corrision in the car anywhere so i know i do not have a bad connection ...... maybe the coil or whatever want power is shorting and putting a drag on the power source ? hmmm battery to coil vroommm perfect .

 

Didi you try the terminal marked "IGN" ? Often times you can find jumpers on junkyard cars at these terminals so you can run multiple wires. If you look hard under there you may see some open jumpers already or try a terminal on the ignition switch.