Searched the site and saw only people suggesting them, but not talking about them. My 66' GS doesn't have a posi in it and I am looking for one. This caught my eye here on eBay, and im looking for the general thoughts on them. What else do I need for it to bolt right up? What is it missing and are these good rear ends? They look great from the outside. And decently priced as well. Let me know what you guys have to say. Thanks. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291216197122
I have never bought a Currie rear but ran and destroyed a lot of the 9" rears. One thing to watch for when buying a 9" and this appears to have it is to get the 31 spline big bearing combo. The axles housings are light yet strong, the drop in center make it easy to work on and to do gear swaps. There is a huge following for the 9" rear and many modifications can be done to them, especially in the off road world. Various vendors make the rear disc brake upgrades, various chromoly axles up to 40 spline, various yoke sizes up to 1410 joints, full floater kits with lock out hubs, high pinion designs, a center section to use GM 12bolt ring/pinion and are even built to steer for front installations in 4X4's. I know in most car applications you can put 7-8k ft lbs of torque to the axles and stay together. I know in my off road truck i was putting down about 20-22k ft lbs of torque to the axles and that was when i had extreme failures. One thing i can say about Currie is i have spoken with them on the phone several times and they have been very helpful each time i have called. What will you need? What ever brake kit you desire or require, the 3rd member with gasket and oil.
They do come with Wilwood kits which is exactly what I would be doing. Probably the 4 piston 12" discs in red with the parking brake. 3rd member? Sorry for my ignorance but I am not well educated on rear ends. Thanks for all the info as well
The ebay rear you were looking at has NO GUTS/ Third member 1400.00 gets you a Housing and axles THAT IS IT! IT IS FORD! Do not desicrate your GM vehicle with the F O R D.... lol Only a Pro center (large pinion shaft) is worth the effort too on that set-up. What are you doing with your car? If it is street bound with very little track time a stock GOOD built rear will do the job. We can build a 8.5 1" narrower but if you are buying aftermarket wheels to fit the 12" brakes just get the offset you need with a stock width 8.5 10 bolt and you will be good to go. IE GM 4.25 " wheel Negative rim offset use a 4.5 or 4.75 or 5" to get the tire under the car and tucked into the wheel well further. Jim J D
I see, I see, glad I know this now! I would be definitely getting larger rims, and would like to them be just tucked up a little, not too far in. I'll give you a PM in a little to see what we can do. Thanks.
Well you can only go so far before the tire rubs. BUT this is the way we center the rim in the wheel well so you can install the largest tire available for that particular car. Jim
Consider the Moser 12 Bolt aftermarket axle housing... They make them for most vehicles, and they are a great option for a stout housing, good design.
Things to consider with the MOSER rears. The upper control arms are cast with a high located upper control arm mounting - Like a No Hop system cast into the rear changes the pinion center line angle. We have had install issues where adjustable upper control arms were needed to reduce vibration issues from drive line angles being off. STRONG rear no question about that - JUST not exactly cast like stock rear upper control arm location. Jim JD
Very interesting, I have been looking at the Moser rear ends for my '65. If the upper arm mounting is higher that would also negatively affect the instant centre. So who makes the best option of rear end for these cars. Currie, Moser, Strange or other. I'm not totally averse to going to a 9' centre for ease of gear changes even though there is almost always a weight penalty. Quite capable of building a diff but to drive 400 miles to a strip then change gears in a dusty pit = no thanks.
Most people need to be as realistic on HOW MUCH your really going to hit the track and how hard your going to run. Most of the time a well build stock rear will take the punishment a few times a year. New gears posi bearing and axles go along way from the 50 year old technology in metallurgy... IT DOES make a difference in strength. NOT just size.
A little off topic but didn't the 1966 Skylark Gran Sport come with a FOMOCO trans when equipped with a 3 speed?
I agree, i would build what you have already. You can opt for new gears and send them out for Chyro treatment, buy chromoly axles, new posi or go detroit if you want near bullet proof, new bearings/seals and be done. The steels and how they can be treated have changed a lot since our cars were built. For an example in my off road truck i was shearing off axles on flat ground with minor stress on them, blowing u-joints all the time. I opted for CTM racing joints, chromoly axles and a detroit locker. The u-joints were already Chyro treated and o chose to send the axles out for treatment. After that i never hurt the front axle again. The things was stupid strong for a D-44. I was running a mild 302/4spd and 4.10grs with 38.5X14.5X15 Super swampers. The crawl ratio was about 76.7-1 and i had no issues bouncing the front wheels off the ground spinning on dry ledge. I know the off road world is different but if these simple changes in parts with treatment can make that kind of difference off roading then your rear axle will hold up all day long even under severe big block power during street use.
I have the Moser 12-bolt in my 72.I ordered the bare housing,with 33-spline axles,and built everything the way I wanted it.I picked it over the Strange 12 and Strange S60. I wanted the raised upper ears that the Moser has,and they also bring the shock mounts slightly inboard,behind the lower control arms,to take some of the angle out & make them straighter.All this will help with 60fts & launching the car.I haven't had any vibrations or drivability issues with mine. I also have a Moser 9" with the backbrace,and I installed the Strange 12-bolt aluminum center,with Detroit Locker & 35 spline axles.It also has the raised ears. It sounds like you could just build your existing rear,or build a 71-72 8.5" 10-bolt.Plenty of parts available,and you can build a strong,reliable rear,for a lot less than a custom-ordered rear from Moser,Strange,Currie,etc.
71, 8.5, 10 bolt is what I did. eaton posi 30s, moser axles 30s and a good set of used gm 3.42 gears. all new bearings and seals. HD retainers. Thanks to Jim @ JD race and the members here on the board for their solid advise. I'm so happy right now :grin:
Good choice! That's the same setup Jim built for me as well! Unless your looking for a stock look, I'd throw a cherry on top and bolt on a TA girdle. Its a really nice piece!!
I remember that Shawn. "Build it just like Larrys" :TU: I'm looking for a ta girdle without the Chevy swish in it. just reminds me of a 12 bolt Chevy. Jim says a Buick cover doesn't exist. I can't help but look for one. If I can't find one then that same Ta cover you have will be just the trick. how old is that pic of your frame and rear? I'm at about the same point in my build. looking at 700r4 and 470 engines. $$$
I dont know if you can see in that pic, but that one says "Moser" on it. Came from summit in a TA box. That pics pretty old. The body is on and we're about ready to prime and paint, so alot's been done since that pic was taken. And you got that $$$($$$) part right...
What about the LPW cover? I built the original 8.5 from my 72 with 30-spline Mosers,a tuned Eaton,and a W27 cover. I ran high 10's for years without issue. It's still running today,in a different car. I built one for a friends 71 that goes 9:60's,and it's been fine too. Any time I get someone with a 71-72 wanting a rear built,I tell them "you already have what you need".
