Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by STAGE-2 TORQUE, Sep 20, 2009.
Thanks very much, SeanBuick76.
I have a 28-spline 10-bolt posi rear.
The rubber is everywhere
Good morning, ALL.
I'm removing the grill again to paint it gloss black, and the complete GN header panel goes back on my Regal-T.
These photos were taken before the header panel was bathed ... and new washers & nuts were installed.
This is to seal the header panel's upper brace before the 3 nuts are tightened down.
The original light blue header panel was sealed as well.
Good morning, ALL.
Can you please tell me what posi-rear oil I need in my 10-bolt 8.5 inch?
This is what my GN posi needs.
Good afternoon, ALL.
... BEST sanding job I was able to do. These headlight bezel sockets (8 in total with 4 being spares) were apparently cast in black,
and I was able to remove @ 82% of the surface rust. The yellow arrows point to proof of sanding. I noticed these sockets are being
sold used on Ebay for $30 each.
I also made sure to remove/save all clips, springs, headlight adjusters, and plastic tabs from my
original 1987 Regal-T's broken header panel.
My headlight bezel sockets; my original 1987 Regal-T socket on the right painted in Rust-Oleum black rust
prevention/rust killer paint, I also used on my TA long headers. The socket on the left is from the red 1987 GN header panel.
My original 1987 Regal-T grill painted with the same black rust prevention paint, then 3 coats of
semi-gloss black. Clear coat paint is next.
My 1987 Buick Grand National header panel is ready to finally get bolted on. After my GN hood is painted primer grey,
everything gets bolted on securely. My trip to Maaco happens AFTER I run my Buick down the "1320."
... site of PROGRESS.
I put together a new vacuum line set-up for my rear spring air bags. The line is 10-feet of 1/4 inch inside diameter silicone.
I used new vacuum hose clamps and 2 new tire valves. I also bought a vacuum line
fitting kit for $7 with a variety of sizes/angles.
My Buick Grand National header panel "without" the BUICK emblem in the center ... FINALLY.
... "GOT TORQUE."
Who made your old fiberglass rear bumper filler?
I've been considering one from Spoolfool, but I may go with the G-body parts fillers instead.
My rear is shot, but my fronts still look OK. I'll probably replace them all before paint on my '81.
I got them from Brian Weaver at gbodyparts.com. You can install them while sitting on a stool ... WITHOUT having to remove the bumpers.
My "fake" H.E.I. Vacuum Advance.
My custom Circuit Breaker Box.
There's 1 more electrical issue I need taken care of ... and I can SAFELY drive. I also added a new ground (blue) wire to the Circuit Breaker.
Also painting my firewall, and I have smaller wire loom to add. LOL
New Buick GN header panel is bolted on ... battery was reinstalled also.
The view through my grill now. Also, going to add 2 more coats of black paint to the grill.
New GN header panel.
I sanded/primed/painted 4 of the headlight sockets. The other 4 are in storage.
Black paint is next.
... it's Outta-Here!!!
Good night, ALL.
Fit test revealed that TA Performance SE Aluminum Stage-1 Head and Valve Cover MIGHT NOT have enough clearance ... with this A/C Delete Box.
If I create my own screw holes in the Firewall ... after positioning the 'Box" as far as possible towards the inner fender, the TA Stage-1 Heads should fit.
My buddy Eric told me that the TA Stage-1 Heads "will" fit/clear the black fiberglass A/C Delete Box. I'm gonna' add a plate to temporarily cover the 'Blower Hole" in the A/C Delete Box.
I plan on retaining the Chrome Stage-1 Valve Covers, using a Aluminum Valve Cover Extender Gasket ... either the 1/4 or 1/2 inch tall extender.
I'm going to have the Firewall stripped of the existing 8-year old black paint, primed, and then painted BLACK again. I'm also going to make sure the back of the passenger side 455 Head is sanded, cleaned, and painted Buick-455-Red again ... it's been over 8-years since that are of the motor was painted ... the factory Heater Box crap was in the way.
I'm also going to have the passenger side #8 TA Header Tube sanded/painted with black Rust-Oleum Paint.
For over 8-years, the Heater and A/C Box prevented my painting that Header Tube black.
... also, my NEW Holley-950CFM Carburetor refuses to accept any fuel.
Before I changed both Needle & Seat Assemblies a couple of months ago ... TOO MUCH fuel was getting into the Holley ... even with the motor off.
NOW ... my Holley is as dry as a desert.
I engaged the Electric Carter Fuel Pump with dual fuel-catch-cans at both ends of the fuel line, and fuel easily flowed into both empty Brad Penn Motor Oil bottles.
I'm shipping my Holley back to Max Air Carbs next week. It would be great to have the TA Aluminum Heads before my Holley950 returns.
In closing, I also noticed that the "rubber" Vacuum Line from my TH400 tranny's Vacuum Modulator ... was "freely dangling" less than 1/4-inch from Exhaust Header Tube #8.
I'm getting the Vacuum Modulator "Hardline Vacuum Tube" before the Aluminum TA Heads get installed. I'm also having the "correct" AN Fittings/more Braided Stainless Steel 1-inch Transmission Line added BACK to the tranny cooler lines.
The dyno-shop screwed up what I personally put together years ago, with the correct "custom" free-flowing Fittings.
Have a safe and great weekend, ALL.
This last photo shows PROOF that my Fuel Line nor either of my Fuel Pumps ... are NOT clogged.
Have a great and safe weekend, ALL.
I was concerned regarding having proper clearance between the A/C Delete Box, and the TA Performance Aluminum Stage-1 Heads.
Eric-The-Bold confirmed the fit/clearance is more than sufficient.
This photo serves as proof.
I'm also going to retain my chrome plated Stage-1 Valve Covers with the TA Aluminum "SE" Stage-1 Heads.
Good morning, ALL.
Photos of a few weeks ago.