Picked up a 1.25" sway bar from an '81 Firebird at the pick your part for $5, new frame mount bushings for $8 and a can of semi gloss black to make it pretty. I guess it's supposed to be a grey cast colour, but oh well. I'll worry about that if I tear the front end apart to clean and paint it. The install took about 1/2 hour or so. Not easy without a lift! Throw some cardboard on the floor to lay on, as the creeper took up too much room. You have to lay on your back and work blind behind your head to bolt up the end links. Check out the difference in the factory '66 bar and the '81 FB bar! The car corners much flatter now. Best mod for the money yet! Brian
Brian, Same swap on my '71 a few years ago. Make sure you also get a rear swaybar & the boxed arms. (I'm not familiar with parts for '66). Without the rear bar & with a much heavier front bar the rear end tends to get loose. Next-up try some gas shocks....AC Delco, Munroe ....etc.. Completely different car on the road.
I have been doing the same swap to all my cars for over 25 years :laugh: be sure to get a rear bar it will make it even better :TU: If the car you took the bar from is still there go back and take the steering box as well that makes a HUGE imporvement all you have to do is put your pitman arm on the T/A box :Brow: If I remeber right most Pontiac use inverted flare hoses and your should fit right in ken
Question, when you use the 1.25" TA bar do you have to order new frame mount bushings and end links for the TA or your original application (19?? GS)
when i installed mine i used the parts from the doner car along with fasteners the bushings have wider section and internal hex fittings Ken
Ken, I never thought to grab the steering box. The yard is in Kelowna, so I won't be going back there anytime soon! Being it was an '81, I assume all the fittings would be metric and would cause issues..... Guss, I ordered new bushings for a T/A in the correct 1.25 size. They made them in 3 different sizes, so you have to be specific. I reused my end links, as I read on here somewhere that they were the same. Mine were still in good shape as the car only has 53,000 miles on it. So........where do I find a rear bar? What donor cars should I be looking for? I would think any A-body wagon would be so equipped. I guess I would grab the lower control arms from the same donor? Gas shocks are on the to do list! Brian
Well Brian there are several ways to do a rear bar the best way is to find a 68-72 A body car to get one from too bad 99.9% of those are already gone when they hit the yards ou: the other way is to try and find one used ie: e bay or local papers o No: BUT if you go to any GM dealership you can order one BRAND NEW and they have stock in Edmonton whse it may cost you between 150 and 200 but is NEW and Unused. I usually ask for one from a 1970 SS396 Chevelle that way the partsmen will understand :Brow: Ask for a Buick part and you will get the deer in the headlight look :eek2: :eek2: :eek2: As for the boxed lower control arms several places have boxing kits to make your stock ones exactly like the factory did. I have used 78-87 A/G body rear bars on a few of my cars ... not ideal but it can be done ( and yes it can work no matter what anyone says ) :laugh: As for the link kits you have reinfoce the links with 1/2" electrical conduit around the spacer or you will crush the split seam on it and use a heavy washer on either side of the middle space as well :Brow: Trust me on this one if you do not you will destroy the link kits in no time OR just but Energy suspension kits they are much stronger. I know there are many aftermarket sorces that many board menbers will advise you to use :eek2: but In CANADA it is a lot harder to get a decent price on them :rant: . IF you want to see and feel how the changes work meet up with me some time and you can drive my cars .... :TU: :TU: I have several differnt combinations of exactly what you are doing and you can see and feel what works and what don't work. Like i I said i have been doing this same conversion for over 25 years on my cars ( even before it was fasionable). And it is the most impresive and inexpensive modification for pure driving quality that you can make... Next you need to put a 2004R in your car ... come on down and drive any of my cars and you will see why :Brow: ... I have stock to heavly modified you can see and feel just what a differance it makes... tires play a big part as well but only after you decide on what suspension you are going with ou: I know I may come off as a bit over confident but I have almost one of every combination in my personal collection of cars and can easily take you ( or anyone ) out and show a hands on demo drive... :grin: You know maybe i am just too old hahahahahah been doing this for 30 years :shock: Ken email me at kkklassen@shaw.ca or call 403-274-5922 my home number almost any night after 6PM
Thanks for all the great info Ken! :beer I'll see if some 1/2" stainless tubing will work in place of the sleeves, or do the conduit thing if we have some around here. I have an uncle who works for Northgate Pontiac in Edmonton and can get me parts cheaper than list. I'll check it out with him. Maybe Mopac has an aftermarket kit in stock? As for the 200r4, that was the original plan, but now I'm planning a 455 swap and not too sure about how the 200r4 will handle the torque. Looking for around 450hp and 500+ ft/lbs. I'm leaning towards a ST-400 now, if I can find one. Found a few nailhead versions that I can use parts from, if I can't find a drop in unit. I'll take you up on the offer to drive one of your cars, or come for a ride at least! I'll be at Clint's on the 30th for the get together. I look forward to meeting all you guys! Thanks again, Brian
You might want to check out the rear bar Larry just put on his - looks nice and works better than the factory set up. See http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=110386 - Bill
a built 200 4r should be able to take the power of that 455 no problem its the 700r4 that i would worry about
