Im in the middle of chasing an oil leak and after many a times of timing cover on and off, I stabbed the dist 180 and 1 tooth off. Pulled it today and the gear is FUBAR, it is destroyed (each tooth is worn down and very sharp) TOAST!!! It was fine, when it had it out 2 weeks ago. The engine has about 10 minutes of run time from last stabbing (the one I screwed up). Never has a problem b4, with the old dist. New one is one of Dave's (no relation to problem). Could I have too much erl pressure on start up 65-70 lbs and 40 at idle until smoking hot??? I have changed nothing else except the timing set. This is getting frusterating. It was a bronze gear... :ball: GO CHARGERS!!! Michael
Sounds like another killed gear from a Hi-volume oil pump.It has always been my understanding that a bronze gear isn't really a streetable unit either.Was also my opinion that they are a race type item.Do you have a Hi-vol pump?Was the dist seated in and the boltdown tightened?
Yes it was seated and it is a HV pump. No its not a roller cam, I wish!!!! I have a xtra factory bronze gear, should I lower the erl pressure and use it or call TA and get a steel gear??? Michael GO BOLTS!!!
What is the reason you are running a HVpump? I would get a new gear (probably steel is better for the street)and an adjustable oil pressure regulator from TA.Is the front cover OK? Maybe you should check the clearances in the oil pump while you have it out when the gear change is made.I would ask the guys at TA their reccomendation as well as others here too.There is no such thing as too much info. Pat
The HV pump was on the car when I got it, the cover is good, and I have set the clearences on the pump(shim) and I already have a TA adjustable regulator. I welcome any help and opinions... I have had zero issues with gear wear until I put in the adjustable reg. Could too much pressure cause it.... Michael
It seems, for the most part, the HV pump is a hated thing! I used one once, as a crutch, on a 350 that couldn't keep the oil pressure light out at idle. For the cost of a v-6/350 cover, I should have just bought a new cover!! With the 455 cover being a BIG ticket item, a lot of people try the tall gears to help when they have a cover that needs melted down. Also, the tall gears seem to be the big ticket for guys who don't know Buicks! If you loosen up all the bearing clearances in the bottom end then you have to use the tall gears to make the motor live half as long as it would if you built it right for a Buick!! If your bearings are set where they should be and your front cover is OK then a booster plate and adjustable regulator seem to be the way to go! I don't know about getting a front cover rebuilt and what all is done but there is someone out there doing it and if someone could go into detail on this, it would be appreciated!!!!! Does it include building up the worn area and then doing blueprint work?? o No: Ken
Earick racing provides a service whereby they spray on a coating of something (line-x, i dunno?) that builds up the gear pocket to where the clearances due to wear are built up to spec.
A bronze gear is an invitation to fill the oil pan with metal shavings. Might as well just dump filings in with the oil. The only reason to use one is when you have a cam core that's incompatable with the stock gear--a steel roller cam. And the benefit is that you fill the pan with "softer" metal shavings than would be torn off the stock steel gear.
I sent my front cover and parts to Earick Racing for "whatever is needed." The result was outstanding. Brian put in new gears, blueprinted the pump, filled it with grease and all I had to do was put it on the motor. I get 90psi at startup, 30 hot idle, 60 at cruise and am to afraid to look at 5500 rpm (too busy hanging on!) Cannot say enough good things about working with Earick Racing.
bonze gear When I rebuilt my 455 for my Riv, I opted for a new TA cover/pump assembly, which I must say is a beautiful piece. after about 2000 miles on my way home from a car show the car bucked and backfired so loud I could hardly hear, left me on the side of the road-first time ever. So, I have fuel, I have spark, take the cap off-rotor moves, -well call a flatbed. Got it home, and low and behold the cam AND the steel dist gear are destroyed. I called TA and asked if this problem had been experienced by anyone else-didn't say too much but sent me a bronze gear. the failure did not cause any other damage fortunately, but I never really figured out what really happened. The oil pressure was never that high (80 cold, 50-60 warm, about 30 in gear at oper temperature.) Now, I am super-paranoid about dist gear wear, check it all the time-some guys change oil alot-I think i'll change gears alot :rant:
If I remember correctly (not a sure thing anymore) it was $120. I supplied all the parts except for the gears. Seemed cheap to me for having it done right.
the cam.. The cam was new (lunati), however I think the gear on the dist was from the 430. Old gear, new cam.
Most likely the culprit is the HV pump. I have had this personal experience myself as has several other buick owners I know. HV pumps and fresh/tight clearance motors do not get along. Too much back pressure is created within the oil passages of the motor putting extra stress on the distributor gear that drives the pump. It is a good thing it had a bronze gear or you would be replacing the cam also due to the cam gear being cast on the cam. It would have worn sharp edged if there had been a steal gear on the distributor.
I should mention I do not run them any more. Make sure the clearances are correct in the pump, use the booster plate and have fun. I have run my motors repeatedly to 5600 with no problem in the pure stock car and to 6200 in the race car with no problems.
Wait wait wait The new TA covers have the HV pump? I took mine apart to re-pack the pump and I didn't notice any longer gear
