Do I need c-clip eliminaters?

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by cray1801, Jun 10, 2003.

  1. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.

    I don't know what I'm looking at, I just want to eliminate the c-clip (if I have one)? This picture is of the stock rear end of my `72 350-4 Skylark (now 455).
     

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  2. GS Kubisch

    GS Kubisch THE "CUT-UP" BUICK

    Craig
    That's an 8.5 rear that te 71/2's came with....they are already a bolt-in axle and parts availability is great.
    In some situations I like them better than a 12 bolt......I've seen the 8.5 rear axle like yours in some full weight cars running in the high 8's and low 9's.....yes,1/4 mile.
    Granted they had all the''good'' stuff in them but at least it's all available,unlike the earlier rearends.

    So,to your question...No you don't need c-clip eiminators.
     
  3. 71GS455

    71GS455 Best Package Wins!

    Two of your four bolts.
     

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  4. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.

    Thanks Gary. I thought I checked on this one time and found that I had one of the better 8.5's but could not remember any details. I do know it has an Auburn ring and pinion.

    Maybe my weak link is the drive shaft? It is 3" in diameter along almost it's length. I do not have a drive shaft loop yet.

    I'm just trying to take precautions before the BFG drag radials are installed.

    My traction or lack of reminds me of when TimR inquired about tires some time back, as I have no traction in 1st gear even when I try to ease into it. :)

    Steve, its painfully obvious now :TU: :grin:
     
  5. 71GS455

    71GS455 Best Package Wins!

    Craig,

    It's always a good idea to run a D/S loop when racing. You never know when a U-joint is going to take a "vacation" on you.

    I'd recommend getting a loop for it. One thing I found is that the "universal" loops will universally fit nothing!

    It would be nice if someone would make one that will fit your basic A-body w/o any modification and will, at the same time, provide the most amount of ground clearance possible.

    The Ujoints my 71 has in it appear to be the originals. I was going to have them replaced, and the guy that was going to do it told me that they're still smooth and that they're probably stronger than the ones I was going to put in it.

    They lasted several launches on Hoosier Quick Time Pros without a problem.

    How is the rest of your rear suspension set up?
     
  6. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.

    Other than air shocks, boxed lower arms and sway bar....it's original. Oh, I'm currently running 255/60-15's but going to 275/60-15 BFG drag radials. Rear rims are 10" with 4.5" rear spacing. Have 3.42:1 posi and 3250 stall converter and battery in the trunk.

    I'm thinking of seperating the Lt and Rt air shocks so I can pressurize them individually to load the RR more.
     
  7. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Steve, METCO makes just what you are looking for. (A-body loop) Fits perfectly!

    Bruce
     
  8. BillMah52

    BillMah52 Well-Known Member

    Cray,
    It might be in your best interest to lose the air shocks and go to air bags. Never had much luck with the shocks. Could never keep them adjusted right to launch consistently straight.
    Gary, want to chime in here? I think you have recent experience regarding this situation.
     
  9. CIT

    CIT Poweraddict, help me

    Do you have a part#
     
  10. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    No....but their # is (864) 332-5929
     
  11. CIT

    CIT Poweraddict, help me

    Found it
    Metco Drive Shaft Loop for '68-'72 A- Body #MDL1100
     

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