I have searched, and found some threads on this subject, but still no luck. It is the passenger door that is stuck closed. I've tried lifting on the door when trying to open. I have removed the inner door panel. I have soaked the living heck out of it with penetrating oil and WD-40. The locks seem to be operating. That is, they're not seized. They will move with either the lock knob, or the key, or manually. The latch will move when the inner or outer door handle is operated too, but the latch just won't release. Can't seem to get behind the latch assembly to move the latch manually to force it to let go either. Is there a secret I'm missing? Any ideas here?
Are you able to operate the latch mechanism by sticking your hand in there? I had this problem with a repro latch.
Sometimes you need to get in there with a pry tool or pick and activate the mechanism. Try this first. Put a light in there so you can see what you are doing. It should release without any other operation. If not... ... with the lock unlocked and the button firmly pushed in - have a helper give the door a good solid firm "shove" with foot. Don't do it so hard as to bend the door shell. It will open without destroying stuff.
The door handle outside has a push bar that contacts the linkage inside. The inside part is like a small flapper. My new handles had to be bent a tad to contact the flapper to open the door. Take the panel off and look up in there with a light. Roll the window up. You should be able to get in there and push the flapper with your finger oy a screwdriver to activate the latch. Theres a fair chance the pot metal activator under the push button broke and the rod isn't travelling far enough to pop the door open. You may hafta pull the handle off the door to push the release from the outside, and with it closed will really suck; just so you know! ws
If you compare say...69-72 A body 2 door latches, they are mostly the same. I think in 71, they changed so that you didn't need to hold the button when you shut the door locked. Your best bet is what Jason said, an allen wrench through the hole on the latch to remove the striker.
http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/door-lock-question.317279/ This lists some of the info and details (wrong from the companies, right from v8) about different year models. Patrick
Ya learn something new every day here on V8!! You can access that striker (torx?) bolt THROUGH the door eh? Still a PITA to get at with the panel on etc. but still an "OUT"! So is the latch in the door all gooey from old age etc?? ws
It's easy if you have good tools. It's no different than doing it with door open, except you need an extension. It's kind of a little known fact that it can be done. I only learned that about 3-4 years ago. You usually learn about it when your door gets stuck and won't open! I was told it has something to do with the plastic piece inside at the bottom of the latch. Nobody seems to know what that plastic piece does. But...when it breaks, it can jam the latch. I'm not saying that's the problem, but it sometimes is. Here's a pic of a latch off ebay. It's the bigg oval hole at the bottom. I'm not saying this is the right latch, this pic was just the 1st I saw. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Chevy-...ash=item2110efd9bf:g:Wp4AAOSwLnBXVxLy&vxp=mtr
Can be done , that's how I did it after trying everything I could think of to get my door open. I had no glass, regulators in door, so it wasn't difficult...Jim
I've decided to order a new latch first, just in case. At least the way it is now, I can still drive the car! Are all the resellers using the same suppliers anyway?
