How can a guy install drip rail mouldings without destroying them? The A-pillar mouldings went on easy, but the rear quarter window section just does not want to co operate. I am afraid I am going to ruin it.
Drip Rail Mouldings I had trouble getting these back on my Riv, so I applied a little wheel bearing grease to the drip rail (lower surface) and they snapped on a lot easier ! :TU:
I'd like a good explaination of how those come off. I have the Fisher body manual that shows them, and it appears that they just clip over the edge of the roof. But, after making an attempt, I'm not so sure I can remove them without destroying them. I figure I will let the shop that installs the new vinyl top deal with them. That will be down the road sometime though. The vinyl top is trapped under those drip rails.
Drip Rail Mouldings Very carefully Dale ! The trick to removal is to get them started at the front after the A pillar chrome is removed, and they should peel off just like a banana. Getting it back on is a little more difficult. The vinyl top covering (if you have one) sits in the bottom of the drip rail and is held in place with a plastic retainer/sealer that is rolled into place with a special tool. The stainless trim then snaps in place over the top edge, and tucks up underneath the bottom of the metal drip rail. A little lubricant will allow the stainless to slide under the drip rail a little easier, and you start at the rear and work forward to get it back on. Match the bend in the stainless trim with the bend in the drip rail, and double check the fit (for length), so you don't end up doing it twice ! :TU:
To safely remove these (compared to other methods) take an old bottle opener and use masking tape to wrap the pointed end(completely around it) as to keep from scratching the moulding or damaging it. Then the best thing to do is to very gently pry the corner piece off first. Then you can slide the opener along the lip about 1/2 to 1 inch spaces very gently prying it up. You may have to go to th beginning and work your way back several times. Once you get about 5-6 inches,it gets a little easier to go toward the rear of the car. When I re-install them, I start at the back. I very carefully make sure the moulding will make the curve area on the top roof area as well as have enough to go to the end where it stops at the back.Patience is needed and getting in a rush will destroy the moulding.Once you get the moulding started over the lip,you can take a rubber hammer with a wadded up rag and gently tap it down. Make sure the moulding is lined up.They go on from the top and roll toward the bottom to install. Pat
Well, I installed them this morning. They don't fit worth beans, but I got them on. The curve for the back window as not made exactly right, so even when installed patiently and carefully, there is a small kink just below the corner on the underside edge. It does not look bad, but for $150 one might expect parts that actually fit right. Is it possible that these are for a Chevelle and Year One/Goodmark is selling them as "close enough" Buick parts? This is only one of the several "almost fit" parts I have tried for this car.
