You're right, that's not a good place. There's nothing between the trunk and the passenger compartment except some foam and fabric of the rear seat back. IF there's a fuel leak in the trunk...you could have a fire that burns through the upholstery and spreads to the passenger compartment. Copper tubing is NOT SUITABLE for fuel plumbing. Copper tubing is well-known for work-hardening due to vibration, and then cracking. For that reason, copper tubing is NOT USED by GM, Ford, Chrysler, AMC, Toyota, Honda, VW, SAAB, or...anyone...else. If you have copper tubing, it is NOT "original". Routing hose from tank to engine compartment isn't best-practice, either.
I don't think I ever got an answer to why you are using an electrical pump in the first place. Is this engine making more than 500 HP?
3/8 seamless steel tubing would be lighter, less expensive, more durable and less porous. I use only as much hose as is required to allow for engine shake, and to connect to the gas tank.
yes it’s making 530 HP, and I want more! Next year when I go with aluminum heads and roller cam and rockers and the Fast efi it will be ready
Tell that to the owners of 66 442's with tri-power. The fuel lines to the carbs were copper from the factory....just sayin
I used a brass cross and nipple to facilitate the pressure safety switch (used headlight three pole connector) the sending unit (for idiot light) and the braided line for oil pressure gauge. It's on the nailhead, so it's at the back of the block, but I can post a picture if anyone wants to see. I am running two relays (and resetting circuit breakers) to allow for failure of either relay and still have fuel pump operation, but the safety switch cuts the pump if oil pressure drops below switch cutoff pressure. The nailhead is 2x4 carbs, but I put it together so I have the option of dropping EFIx2 on it with only a regulator spring change. (Aeromotive)
I went out on a limb when I installed this efi inline fuel pump (HLY-12-927) on my car due to there was not too much information about it on a carburetor system. So I did a little math and I decided this pump was the candidate lol. So far it’s doing what it suppose to do. I called Holley and asked about this pump being put on for a carburetor set up and tech came up with the same numbers as I did but later when I checked the specs on this pump he had listed it as a 450 Hp @ 8 PSI on a carburetor set up. Remember the carburetor regulator is set @ 7 PSI.
20171220_224419 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM Oil Pressure Safety Switch connector (using headlight connector) This is the rear of the block on the nailhead, but SBB and BBB should work in a similar fashion. 20171220_22413 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:25 PM 20171220_224122 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM 20171220_224105 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM 20171220_224053 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM 20171222_140525 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM The two wires from the in fuel tank pump (sender and pump power) are routed through the bottom of my trunk and the built harness runs from the front firewall along side the body flat ribbon harness into the trunk. I will be putting the relays and circuit breakers in a waterproof box, but I did not have it yet to show pics. I'll show that later. Pump Relay by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM This is the diagram showing the made wiring harness. wires are 12 gauge for fuse to switches, and 10 gauge fro power and run from front to back. Loren Alexander (of 65GS.com) made my front, engine, starter and this harness, as well as adding relays for headlights, battery gauge, battery disconnect switch and some other mods. If anyone needs wiring, I cannot speak highly enough for Loren! Let me know if there are any questions or other pics I can supply.
If you are planning on converting to EFI,you will have to start over with everything. I have a complete FAST XFI system,if you are interested.
