hi, out there I know this is a buick form, but my freind has a 1968 chevelle with a rebuild 350cu in. In it and what he is having problem is that when starting the car the wire from neg side of the battery to the body of the car keeps burn though. We did put new wires from battery to starter pos and neg. then put neg wire from engine to the frame. But the wire still melts after a couple start ups. If there is any one out with some idea what to do to help out would be great. I know it's not a buick,but i guess we always have to help out chevy guys. jerry allen 1971 gs 455
Try Team Chevelle These guys will know what to do for sure; http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi
its quite time consuming but... you need to replace the body and inner body work along with engine and trans and interior with one of a Buick... a GS or skylark from about 1967-1969 should work. actually... check your contact where the positive connects to the starter. It could also be a fried component within the starter or starter relay grounding out. OH!!! also edited.. make sure you have a good ground cable connected to the engine.
that wont work what your friend will have to do is sell his car and buy another one. the best thing would be a buick.
Hi Jerry, I may have misunderstood the way you rigged it up, if you have not run a wire from the batt neg to the starter then I agree with Nate above. The Negative post on the battery should go directly to the block or head. I have seen probs with grounding the batt to the body and starter to frame. If you think about it the current has to travel from the starter through the block->trans->driveshaft->U-joints->rear end->then whatever way it gets to the frame and back to your ground strap. I have also seen some pretty small wire used for battery cables. #1 is the way to go, Belden makes all kinds of different wire combo's. The one I like is #1 for block to neg batt terminal and has a #10 to go to fenderwell, a mesh type bonding strap goes from fenderwell to frame. I also like to use No-Alox compound on any electrical connection I make. This is the stuff electricians use for aluminum to copper connections to keep electrolysis down but it works great to eliminate bad connections of any kind, totaly safe to use and costs about $3.00 for a small tube. Smear just a tiny bit on your battery post before you put the terminal on and you won't get that white chalky oxidation. If you try the No-Alox use very little cause the excess just makes a mess. Hope this helps, Lou
