Don't mean to jack you thread. I went and checked out that racinjunk link above. WoW there is a lot of stuff for sale on there. Quite a few Buicks as well. There are multiple catagories where they are listed. Probably 80 total Buick cars for sale. All year models. Oh yeah, plenty of trailers too. Todd
Dave, I have one that I don't use anymore. I'm in Flat Rock, the trailer is in Manchester (near Ann Arbor). 24' enclosed, tag along, 10,000 GCWR. PM me if you want to know more. Thanks.
Thanks, all. Racing Junk really does have a lot of neat stuff, they have a good classified ad setup. Rob, long time no see. See PM..Definitely interested. Thanks, Donny...again.. Car is much too nice for an open trailer now, but not too nice for Pure Stock/FAST...None of them are. LOL
daveH, look in to buying a Pace American brand trailer. I bought mine in 1994 and have over 200,000 miles on it. It in my opinion for the $$$ it is the best built enclosed car trailer on the market. Go to any car show/race car event you will see Pace trailers everywhere! Mine is a 24', insulated with a 7500 BTU A/C unit, finished inside, 11,400 # rated 8" I beam frame rails, two roof vents, 3 12V lights, 5 dual 120V florescent lights, one piece alumn roof, .030 white painted exterior alumn panels, fully treated/painted underneath, 16" extension flap at end of rear door for low cars, and best of all it has independent Torsion Flex axles. The only problem I had with the trailer was after a 9,000 mile trip out west in 2011. A few cracks developed along the welds were the Torsion Flex mounting brkts. were welded to the frame rails. Easy fix, just got out my disc grinder and wire wheel to clean the cracked area and stick welded the cracks with 1/8" 6011 rod!
If I may Hi-Jack this thread for a minute, how do most of you load your car into the trailer?.....drive it in and climb out the window, electric wench, etc. If you use a wench, are you able to walk (shimmy along the wall) beside the car to steer it a little if need be? I know my cars have the locking steering and I would want to turn off the ignition even if the key was left in place. I am looking to buy a trailer and was just wondering if I really needed to get one with 5" or 6" ramps built inside the trailer with an escape hatch large enough for me to open the door and get out? I am wanting to bring my 73 Vette to the party this year. I know I have one car (2008 ZO6) that sits very low and it would be handy if the car was an extra 6" higher in the front when anyone went to tie it down. Thanks
I have a white 2006 UXT by United 20' with a 24" V nose. It has rubber ride 3500 lbs. axles and "C" rated tires. Tires are good with a spare, there are extra outside lights, and a small storage cabinet in front. Trailer is in good shape and pulls fine. It's big enough with the V nose for a car and tools/luggage etc. I use it as a race car trailer for my "G" body drag car. I am going to something bigger so I can take my 3 wheeler along without trying to squeeze it in the front. I would sell it for $2950.00. I am in S.W. Michigan just above Elkhart / South Bend Indiana.
Thanks Donny. By saying "with the box raised" do you mean the whole floor or just ramps? I think with just ramps I would have more room to reach under the front of the car to attach tie down straps..??? How much did you have the "box" raised? It looks like the door would clear fine and that is what I want. Thomas
the whole "box" sits up 4 inches higher on the frame, the floor is level this thread has lots of pics http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...r-where-do-you-put-the-escape-door&highlight=
Thanks again Donny. What do you or other think about 5" or 6" raised runners/ramps built inside the trailer, about 10" wide, running from the back to the front that the car would sit on, leaving the middle of the trailer floor lower so it would be easier/ or even possible to reach under the front of the car to attach tie down straps? This would also make it possible to open the car door over the trailer wheel wells if you have an escape door. I guess one draw back could be that the car might need to sit a little further forward in the trailer to stay off of the inclined part of the built in runners/ramps. But given the space from the center of the cars rear wheels to the very back of the rear bumper and the need to leave some space between the rear bumper and the rear door of the trailer, this may not be a problem. Have any of you seen a trailer built this way?? Know anyone with one? Know any one's results with one built this way?? Thomas
Donny, what brand is your trailer and where did you get it? The people I am talking to say they can't raise the box/floor and if they put a concession type door in it like yours it will need to be at least 4" over the top of an already to high inner wheel-well. Now Featherlite can build just what you are talking about but I sure don't like their price.
