Fired it up

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Mark Demko, Sep 2, 2018.

  1. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Got everything good to go, filled AED carb with gas, already had oil pump primed, filled rad with water, had it timed to 16 initial to avoid excessive cranking, put fully charged batt back in, turned key and boom, fired up nice and loud with open headers, don’t like doing it that way as you can’t hear any clanking or banging but I had to take my intermediate pipe off so I can remove the collector extensions, easier out from under the car.
    My AED float is sticking tho, flooding on primary side so I shut it down till I remedy the issue
     
  2. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    That's awesome Mark, glad you got it running .
     
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  3. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill Well-Known Member

    SWEET!

    Might even enough time to get a couple end of the season runs in this year if all goes well and you have the time in your schedule?
     
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  4. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    LOL, my stepdaughter said the same thing!
    The way things are going, if I get to drive it around before the weather turns crappy I'd be happy:cool:
    I gotta get under my Safari van today, find some leaks, but the GS is more satisfying to work on:D So I better get the GS dialed in first huh!
    Gotta decide if I want to just purchase new head/intermediate pipes, or weasel my collector extensions outta my existing pipeso_O
    If I do new pipes, I think Im going straight duals...….. no H or X pipe...……. MAYBE:rolleyes::rolleyes:
     
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  5. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Thanks Dwayne, I'll post pics, or a video if I can do a video on here.
    Most vids I see on here are hosted by You Tube.
     
  6. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Gasket on primary bowl is pooched.
    My theory is the gasket dried from sitting for two summers, that started the initial leak, I tightened the bolts ( they "appeared" loose) well when I did that, I was actually over tightening and squishing/cutting the gasket:rolleyes:
    Im replacing the rear gasket too.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    New front and rear bowl gaskets solved the carb issue.
    Now Im looking at new mufflers, probably the ultraflo's 17222's
    I couldn't put the exhaust "back together" starting from the center so to speak, so I removed it all, and re-assembling from the headers back, and in the process, I sacrificed my beloved 17749's to remove 'em from the tail pipes:(
    After I get the car quieter, then I can get on to carb tuning.
    Its definitely rich at idle according to the A/F meter
    The roller cam seems small, not much lope, its advertised duration is 292, doesn't say what at .050 on the card.
    Pulls 17/18" vacuum at idle, outta gear.
    413 cam was about 7" in gear, 8/10 outta gear
    I know more compression will tame a larger cam, but...……..
    Gotta read up on how to adjust 4 corner idle on Holleys:D
     
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  8. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 22 years of racing the same 355 Buick motor

    Keep turning in the screws all 4 until it starts to stumble some then open up 1/8 at a time to get your highest reading on vac gauge and I like to use a rpm meter at the same time. Then I go back and keep closing and opening each screw to get best idle speed/ vac reading. I keep working all 4 and when I am convinced that each one will cause the car to stumble with just a 1/8- 1/4 turn I know I have it.

    Sometimes you have to open the back two barrels to get the front throttle to close some so the idle screws will work in the front. But if you open the back two too far the idle screws in the back will not kill the idle when you close them. It will only take a 1/8 - 1/16 turn on the back two barrels to make it change for the idle screws in the back.

    I don't think all 4 screws are not opened up to one full turn maybe 3/4. With the cam in there it is sensitive to small changes. Mine is at 13 and 10 on idle. 10 in drive 13 in N vac.
    The TA 510 cam was at 5 in N. and 3 in drive.

    Since you have such a good vac reading you will not have to open the back barrels at all since you do not have to idle up with the main idle screw in the front.

    The car has to be real warm for the idle system to get tailored in. You will know when you have it because when you start it up from cold it will sit there and idle at 800 in park. Mine will not stall once it is running I find this amazing with the SP3 and the heads plugged at the exhaust crossover.

    I like to set the idle screws in drive with the brake on and wheel blocked. Just don't forget you did this and goose the engine to see if it will recover and not stall.
     
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  9. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill Well-Known Member

    The degrees of duration @ .050" on your cam card will be stated in the picture of the 2 cam lobes IIRC if that is TA cam card you have? The camshaft overlap is also stated there if I am recalling correctly as well?
     
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  10. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    When I do 4 corner idle , I seat all 4 then back all out 1/2 turn and then run the idle speed screw in another turn or so. Then adjust till the idle speed screw has as little as turns as possible on it IE let the idle mixture and timing give you your idle.

    Some engines will want larger idle bleeds if you have that option. Or crack the rear blades just a touch
     
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  11. Mart

    Mart '71 350 GS, almost stock

    Mark, Here's your cam card....straight pattern.
    IMG_0994 (1).JPG 1536456674860907752557.png
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2018
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  12. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    it only has 8° of overlap, I'm sure it will make good power, but it isn't going to talk to you
     
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  13. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    AHH HAAAA!
    What you said about the rear throttle plates being open and the rear idle screws kinda makes sense to what I was experiencing!!
    The other day when it was running, I fiddled with the idle speed, I backed the idle screw off till the primaries were closed (shoulda stalled) but it didn't, also the primary idle mixture screws had no effect, even fully seated.
    The secondary side is were I was getting all my adjustment response...…………… this is starting to make some sense now:cool:
    Thanks guys, well, more learning to do, this is going to have to sink in since this is new territory for me.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2018
  14. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Its an AED carb, I believe EVERYTHING is adjustable LOL.
    I got a lot to learn here;)
     
  15. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

  16. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 22 years of racing the same 355 Buick motor

    190

    Seat the back two barrels with the adjustment screw then open slightly that will get you started. Close the front to bring down the idle and adjust the 4 corners. You may end up with all 4 at 1/2 open.
    Remember that big Craftsmen analyzer I showed a while back it has a big sweeping needle to check the rpm and just a little turn of the screw can drop that rpm 20-50, the rpm will be more sensitive than the vac gauge in final adjustment.

    craftsman engine analyzer.jpg
    This thing is 30+ years old now I don't even know if you can get anything like this nowadays back then it was 125 bucks.
    I bet I really bought it in 1982 ouch long time
     
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  17. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I (my Dad actually) had an Actron analyzer similar to that, big readout, long sweeping needle, don't know what happened to ito_O
     
  18. Mart

    Mart '71 350 GS, almost stock

    Like this?:D
    1536496246354-1427724027.jpg
     
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  19. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    It was a bit wider, but the case was red like that tho:D
     
  20. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 22 years of racing the same 355 Buick motor

    you guys see that Made in USA insignia on those meters, don't see that anymore.
     
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