How much firewall engine block clearance should I have with the 455 swap on a 85 Regal? I really haven't seen any dimesions yet, just to set it back as far as possible. Also, what are you guys doing for gaskets on the eldebrock intakes? I have the composite gaskets from TA, but also thought I needed to trim the old valley pan gasket and reuse it as well with the composites. I hope to be mounting the TA pads in this weekend so I can get this swap done. thanks,
Hi Scott. If you have an airbox (for A/C or heat), you need to allow room for the valve covers. If you run an airbox delete, then just leave yourself enough room to be able to undo the chain from your cherry picker chain. On one of my 455 Regals (the avitar pic) I didn't have enough room to pull the bolts out of the rear of the heads (the accessory bolt holes) and had to cut small holes in the firewall to access them from inside the car...which was fine because it was a race car and I wanted max engine set-back. Composites are fine, and if you can trim the old metal valleypan gasket I'd use it as well to keep hot oil off the bottom of the intake.
Ramin, thanks for the reply. I was planning on leaving the AC intact on this car, I've got an empty 455 block (no heads) in the car now with a 400 tranny attached to it so I could mark the pads a little easier. I'll put a set of heads and valve covers on to check the clearance. So what exactly do I need to trim on the old valley pan gasket? I'm assuming the ends to I can use the TA gaskets, and keep the center portion of the valley pan intact.
Yes, trim all the material so it doesn't interfere with the composites around the ports and water jackets. The only area to leave some is near the center around the exhaust cross-over passages. That way you can still push the metal pan down into the valley to get the interference "springy" fit but also be able to anchor it down by sandwiching the remaining end between the head and the composite gasket. I hope that explanation makes sense, it's late.
You might want to bend the sheet metal out of the way where the firewall and floor pan are spotted together and the bolts go for the trans. It will help if you ever pull the trans with the engine in the car.
I kept the ac in my car, the valve cover clearance on the passenger side is minimal. That is what determined where I put the motor mounts. What lil bowtie said about bending the sheet metal lip is good advice and will save some scraped knuckles later on, and give you room for the trans dipstick. For the lifter valley you may want to check with AMP Performance, they have an aluminum sheet that lays in the ends of the block and doesn't interfere with your intake gaskets, Jon
Thanks to all for the info! I spent a little time tonight looking at the fit, and I think I'm close to getting this. The crossmember I'm using is the Iceman for the Turbo 400. With an empty 455 block attached to the tranny and the crossmember (no heads or intake yet), I get about 5 degrees of slope on the engine with the crossmember exhaust humps all the way up to the floor board. I'll get the heads and valve covers on this weekend and try again. Couple of other questions to ask..... 1. What transmission/crossmember mount should I use (height)? I had one laying around that's 1.5" tall, not sure if I could find a shorter one or not to put the engine down a little more, mine is old and needs replaced anyhow. 2. Ramin - I attached a picture of a valley pan and the new TA gaskets for the intake. Do I cut around the red area leaving the (2) center bolts in place? 3. Do any of the existing engine crossmember holes line up with the TA pads? One looks real close to where I think the engine may go on the passenger side. 4. Anybody remember the length of driveshaft you cut to using a Turbo 400 tranny short tail? Thanks again for your replies!
I attached a pic how I've done it in the past. It's not going to move anyway with the way it fits under the edge of the head, but it's just "cheap insurance" to make sure it doesn't budge.
If you are going to run headers put them on NOW before you drill for the frame pads! I had to trim the lower a -arm mounts to clear my headers. Saw off the lumps on the block before you try to mount the headers. Oh and don't bother painting the headers untill you know it's all good as you will scratch them getting things to fit! I had to modify the ac box as it hit the valve covers, The ac didn't work so I tossed it and relocated the heater core for more engine clearance , and made a plate to cover the parts I cut out. I must have had that engine mock up in and out 15 times before everything worked. I can't help with the edelbrock Question as I used the SP-1. Hope that helps! Brad
Brad, thanks for the info. When I started the project I thought about using headers but decided not to as the car will be a street car. Some of the 455 regals I've seen with headers are a very tight fit! I can live with the manifolds for what I intend to do with the car. I found a TA document about cutting the valley pan gasket to match with the gaskets - cutting them this weekend to get that part done.
Made some progress this weekend....got the frame pads in location and drilled and got the valley pan gasket trimmed up. I picked up a set of Poston valve covers a few years ago, and what a difference they make with the fit on the passenger side versus stock. Now I'm getting ready to put the conveter in so I can drop the real motor/tranny in the car, and have another question. About (5) years ago I ordered a convertor from TA after describing the setup to them on this motor. They recommended and sold me a JW p/n 20442-12 convertor, which is a step up from stock. The specs I have from the time of purchase say 2000 rpm stall, but JW's website lists it as a 12" convetor for a Turbo 350 instead of the 400 I'm using. Anybody using one of these? If so, how do you like it?
hey good luck!...it is really not bad-NONE of the frame holes line up with the T/A frame pads, I had my motor and trans out a few times before I was happy. I came to the resolve that I would drill the holes to 1/2" to give myself some "wiggle" room side to side. I used a Gforce cross menber and I measured 51-52" myself so I guess I'm right on with where I need to be, which makesme feel good. I bought a regal a few months back, I had a sweet 80 regal years back, and with my Riv at the body shop for probably a long time, I had to have something to rie in this summer. I found a roller, and I mean roller for 1800.00, sweet body an a full cage (formerly propelled by a less than ideal brand -x motor), but EVERYTHING else gone, even the small stuff, E-brake cable items, stuff I really dont want to spend time on, but will be cool when I'm done...
