Trying to biuld up a "to-do" list to get the frame ready for the Skylark body. Just about down to the bare frame with exception of the susp/wheels so I can move it around.. This is going to be a cruiser..So dont need any race mods... Are there any frame mods I should consider doing while this thing is out in the open? For now I am just trying to repair the body mounts holes and clean and por-15 the frame.. so far I am considering 1) boxing the rear control arms 2) pondering using the lower front contol arms with the oval or round bushing. 3) still on the fence about using the pontiac 400 front springs I have for the Buick 350 motor..(all I have for now, came with the donor frame, same as the oval bushings) That stuff kinda leans toward the suspension stuff though.. just thinking out loud and willing to consider any input... Thanks
Fuel and brake lines would be a good idea while everything is easily accessible. You can put all the suspension stuff on (at least enough to move it around without final tightening), but it gets a little involved in the front-end with no weight on the frame. Check the front frame horns and make sure there's no stress cracks where they start to dip behind the front fenders. :TU:
Assuming you will be cleaning up the frame or sandblasting it, just check for cracks and weld them if you find any. You won't notice any difference between the round or oval bushings so go with whatever you have. Consider getting a set of the rear control arm supports that connect the lower and upper control arms mounting points. Highly recommended for any car with any kind of horsepower increase. If your non-boxed lower control arms are in good shape you can buy the inserts to weld in them that convert them to the factory style boxed arms for about $30 and they are easy to put in. I have a pair of nice used front coil springs out of a `71 Skylark 350 with a/c if you're interested. Not rust pitted. $20 plus shipping.
i have gto 400 springs in the front of my 72 gs 350. i have to cut almost a half coil off the springs to get the car to sit properly, otherwise it was way too high.
In addition to checking the frame for cracks I'd make sure it is dimensionally correct. Check the frame in each of the three axis. I couldn't figure out why my doors wouldn't open with almost everything snug. The cause was a LH frame horn that was 1/2" away from where it should have been. Down 1/4 and in 1/4" made it all fit like it should have. The dimensions are in the Body Manual.
Good Stuff, fuel and brake lines are definately on the list, i should have put that down.. Thanks for the pointers on the frame horns. I will look into to those it does look kinda flimsy on the lower rear mount.. And I will take you up on the front spring offer, i will drop ya a PM.. Hi I think you helped me out with this question a ways back..Looks like I may be able to get a good replacement for this situation now..Thanks for the input.. Yes thank you so much, just what I needed!!! Ahh, good one, I will look for those specs and check into this..Thank You
Thanks for the pic, definately going to investigate this, looks like this area good use some beef even on a stocker.. More good info, thanks to all
sorry ..they are called -Trailing Arm Brace - many aftermarkets make em check in Jegs/summit mine is Hotchkis brand http://www.jegs.com/i/Hotchkis/515/1402/10002/-1
Stock type frame supports like that are available from Ames Pontiac. Get springs for the engine/car you are using. Do not risk using from another car. You may not get correct stance. Also completly rebuild front end. All round bushings are correct for Buick. I would not use ovals. They are tougher to change. I just did a set on an Olds.
Thanks Dave, I will take your advice on sticking with the round bushing for the front LCA's.. The ovals were from the donor frame.Working on the springs as we speak..
