front control arm question

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by baybuick, Aug 7, 2008.

  1. baybuick

    baybuick Well-Known Member

    Recently, one of the bolts that hold the front upper control arm shaft to the bracket on the frame, snapped on my 69 skylark. The control arm or the shaft is now rubbing with the steering column because there is only one bolt left.

    Questions:

    Is it possible to change out the four bolts (two for each upper control arm shaft) without compressing the spring or taking apart the a arms?

    All the shims fell off on the drivers side when the bolt snapped. Can I just replace it with the same number of shims as on the passenger side?

    Thanks Shawn
     
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Yes. See if you can do it with the tire on the ground from up top. If not put a jack under the lower control arm, lift the tire off the ground and remove the tire and wheel. The spring is between the lower control arm and the frame.

    Those bolts and nuts are special. They are like wheel studs with serrations where they go through the frame. Dorman probably makes them.

    Put the same number of shims in and then have the front end aligned. That is the only way to get it right.
     
  3. baybuick

    baybuick Well-Known Member

    Thanks, I just wanted to make sure that I can remove the bolts without getting my fingers chopped off.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    As long as the jack is under the lower control arm, or the tire is on the ground, yes
     
  5. wildcat2

    wildcat2 Well-Known Member

    NO NO NO. If the tire is supporting the weight of the car, the spindle transfers the force to the frame. The spindle must be attached at both top and bottom or very bad things will happen. Jack/jack-stands under the lower control arm is OK.
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Kevin,
    The spring sits between the lower control arm and the frame. With the weight of the car on the tire wheel, the front spring isn't going anywhere. You can remove the upper control arm shaft bolts completely and nothing will happen. They do so on the alignment rack to remove/add shims. If you had the car up on jack stands under the frame and disconnected the upper control arm with the wheel in the air, yes, that would be dangerous.
     
  7. Bad Buick

    Bad Buick Foe Fiddy Five

    I know that 3 or 4 years you could still buy those upper bolts from the local GM dealership, the GM part# is 381909 which gets you a box of 8. I didn't need 8 but fortunately they had 4 singles that I bought. Year One will sell the GM bolts in singles and their part # is 9217N. You can take out those upper bolts as long as u keep the full weight of the car on the front wheels. I remember I had to hit mine pretty good to get them out.
     
  8. baybuick

    baybuick Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the part number Bob but I was told that the GM dealership doesn't carry them anymore.

    If I jack up the car just a little bit and the tire still has contact with the ground, is it still safe to remove the bolts? I ask because I don't have any jackstands right now.
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    As long as the jack is under the lower control arm, you'll be fine. You really should have a jack stand in case the jack fails, for safety's sake.

    These should be the same, http://www.rickscamaros.com/product...rame+-+Front+Suspension+Hardware-_-RC-403-_-X
     
  10. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

  11. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    They also need to be poundedd in so the serrations seat. Not easy to do unless you take things apart.
     
  12. gransportw

    gransportw Well-Known Member

    HI all iam no expert but if you put your car on jackstands took tire off took your top ball joint nut off maybe a floorjack under the bottom control arm just so it dosnt slam down wont the shock that bolts to the bottom control arm and frame keep it from falling apart plus the sway bar is hooked on the bottom also. just trying to help thanks gransportw
     
  13. ragtops

    ragtops Gold Level Contributor

    I have done this a few times. The top ball joint will probably need to be separated from the spindle in order to have access to the bolts from the backside, where the bolt heads are. In my estimation the entire upper control arm will likely need to come off the car in order to get access to be able to take a hammer and maybe a punch to get the broken bolt knocked out, according to exactly how and where the bolt has broken. Also you need access to actually work on driving the new bolts in place, if the control arm is not removed it will be in the way. And once you get the ball joint separated you may as well remove the upper arm and replace the rotten upper rubber bushings and inspect the shaft to make sure it is "good". Remember "Do it once, do it right", not my original phrase but still a good rule of thumb. Any Chevelle parts will fit, I use National Parts Depot, cheaper and fast shipping. They have a bolt kit for the upper, 4 of everything and a few shims for $14.00 PN C-6168-1AK. 64 through 72 bolts are the same, bushings are the same but there are variations in size and shape (lower), but like parts interchange all GM "A" body 64 to 72. You can call me with questions.
    Mike
    740-533-0240
     
  14. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    My 2 cents - I have used a big crowbar between the end of the bolt and the exhaust manifold to pop out the bolts. you get enough leverage that way and there is no need to try to hammer them out. For putting back in - I "feel" for the serations and line the bolt up with the existing grooves, then let the nuts pull them in - again, no need for hammering.

    For the broken one you might try to fit a socket extension or another bolt in between the crowbar and the broken piece and pop it out that way.

    - Bill
     
  15. Truzi

    Truzi Perpetual Student

    Do them one at a time. Replace the broken one, then remove and replace the good one.
     
  16. baybuick

    baybuick Well-Known Member

    Thanks for all the input.

    Another question:

    The hole (in the bracket on the frame for the control arm shaft bolts) where the serated part of the bolt fits in has enlarged enough so the bolts won't fit tight.

    What is the best way to secure the bolts? welding?

    Thanks Shawn
     

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