So the fuel gauge wasn't working when I got the car. Read full all the time- went to empty when wire grounded so had a bad sender. I replaced my fuel tank and sender with a holley in tank pump setup. Fuel gauge read full when I filled it up and thought I was good to go. Drove the car a couple days and the gauge dropped accordingly. Until it stopped in between half and a quarter and I didn't notice and eventually ran out of gas. Read that new senders often don't work with old gauges due to different ohm ranges so I got a Tanks meter match which was supposed to correct this. Damn gauge reads everything but right now and moves all over the place while driving. There was another unit called fuel link but was $50 more. Anybody have any experience with that one or found a way to make their original gauges work with a new sender? Thanks in advance.
I used the meter match however it didn’t work, adjusted it numerous times, finally gave up and kept a mileage log
You have to be mindful when putting the sender in the tank so you don't bend the arm or have the sock interfering with the arm/float. That can present reading problems several ways.
I'm fairly certain I didn't damage the arm on install. I called Tanks and they said the tank has to be on empty when you set the empty parameter and full when you set the full. They said the unit will be confused when you set the full and empty parameters when the tank is full like mine was. That wasn't in their video online- you were supposed to be able to set full and empty no matter what you had in the tank. I reread the directions and found the presets for different manufacturers. I decided to use the GM preset of 0 ohm for empty and 90 ohm for full and see what happens. Will update.
