Fuel line between pump and carb

Discussion in 'The Mixing shop.' started by 350cid, May 15, 2018.

  1. 350cid

    350cid Member

    I've got a 350 4bbl, and many years ago replaced the factory steel line that run from the fuel pump to the carb with rubber fuel hose, and an inline filter. I think I removed the filter at the carb, as I did replace the inlet with a shorter fitting. This works but has some draw backs. First it looks kind crappy. Second, it seems that the hose eventually hardens and starts cracking. Third the filter kinda rubs as it's just floating next to the head/valve-cover.

    If I started the car it would leak...I think from the cracked hose. The car isn't in driving condition currently, but I'd like to get it that way. I think I still have the original steel line...someplace. It's likely rusty, although I did wire wheel it at one time. I've thought about re-installing it with the original style filter, but I do like having the larger remote filter than I can see too.... it's clear plastic.

    What kind of filter and line setup do people typically run?
     
  2. flynbuick

    flynbuick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Most use the factory set up with filter in the Q jet neck. You can get a frees line relatively cheap at www.thepartsplceinc.com.
     
  3. 350cid

    350cid Member

    What is a "frees" line..... and everything I'm finding says it's for a Holley.
     
  4. flynbuick

    flynbuick Super Moderator Staff Member

    That is a typo. Should say reproduction line.
     
  5. 350cid

    350cid Member

    I get a failed DNS assist with the link, but then att does yahoo search for me, and I can get to the web site..... I select Buick full size, and get nothing like a reproduction fuel line. It's all Holley stuff.
     
  6. buick64203

    buick64203 Right wing conservative Staff Member

  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Another option is to make up a braided line with AN fittings. The nice thing about them is they seal up so easy. All it takes is two conversion fittings at each end. They are 5/8-18 inverted flare to -6AN. Then you can use a nice AN billet filter in line if you like.
     
  8. carmantx

    carmantx Never Surrender

  9. 350cid

    350cid Member

    I looked at Inline's website and couldn't find it. It looks like they only have it listed for the Skylark, although I would think it would be the same part as what I'd need for my LeSabre. I did find my original. It wasn't in the basement, and I didn't see it mixed in with my truck parts in the garage, although that's where I found the filter housing and other miscellaneous parts. It occurred to me that it might be in the car, so I got the keys today, and looked.... yup, on the back floor board covered up with other parts, and seed shells :-/

    The Inline part is not exactly the same as my original, but it would probably work. I think I'll use my original, or maybe try to bend something myself. The original is in better shape than I thought it would be. I wish I wouldn't have wire wheeled it years ago. I'm sure I probably removed a lot of the tin plating in my effort to "polish" it up.

    Next question. I seem to recall a gasket in between the filter housing and the carburetor. Is it cardboard? Metal, sort of what a spark plug uses? I didn't see one in the box, I found the fitting/housing in. If it's metal, I can probably use whatever I have on the car already, but it it's something like cardboard, I should probably replace it, and I'm not finding it on Rockauto or Oreilly's web site.
     
  10. 350cid

    350cid Member

    Looking at Quadrajet Power, it looks like it's a fiber washer... and spring. I need to look at those boxes of parts, again.

    Edit, well crap there's a ton of options apparently.... nylon, check valves, early, late?
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2018
  11. carmantx

    carmantx Never Surrender

  12. 350cid

    350cid Member


    I think so, but I'll have to check to make sure. I replaced the carb shortly after I bought the car back in the 90s. I was buying parts from a local speed/circle-track shop that turned out to be less than a great business. I think it was a rebuild that he had laying around. I think it's a Buick carb, but probably not for my specific application. I never could get any mileage out of the car afterwards.
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Get the part number, it's on the main body, driver's side, near the throttle connection. Many people buy remanufactured carburetors from parts catalogs. They are the worst as they are cobbled together from parts, and have a very generic tune so they will run on a variety of engines, but not very efficiently. The Q-jet is calibrated for each specific engine line and year. On anything other than bone stock, it will need some tuning by someone who knows what they are doing. Get one built for your engine. There are 2 guys who do that here on V8, carmantx (Mark), and techg8 (Ken).
     
  14. 70skylark350

    70skylark350 Well-Known Member

    opgi sells replacement steel or stainless.
     
  15. 350cid

    350cid Member

    Yes, a generic tune is kind of what I've gathered over the years. I do believe my engine is bone stock, Though.... well I'm sure it had "maintenance" type work by a hack, as many of the bolts looked non-original to me. I honestly don't know what OEM bolts should look like on a 69, but what was there was mismatched and chewed up. Twenty plus years ago, I replaced most with grade 8 farm store bolts, as that's what seemed the best at the time, and I still don't think that was too bad of a solution.

    A new carb would be nice, and I may do that down the road. Right now, I just need to get it functional. Get it running, and then get it stopping.... I've got at least one leaking front wheel cylinder.
     

Share This Page