Any ideas how to get the 3m tape and its residue off the vehicle without harming the paint. Have used my fingers only to get blisters. The I used the 3m adhesive remover and even "goo be gone" with little effect. Amazing how the tape has lost its hold on the item but not the paint. The removers leave gooey residue that takes forever to get off! Any help on this matter would be deeply appreciated. PS: I'm in Florida so cold is not an issue! Thanks
The 3M adhesive/wax remover I used is for body shops. Not something available at local stores. Worked great on everything except the tape.
I've used 3M's adhesive, wax & mark remover (P/N 03607) when replacing my T fender emblems on my 87 Turbo T with great results. Don't know if this is the same product you have tried. Must be some tough adhesive. I really soaked down the emblems and everything came off pretty easy. Good luck.
When trying to get off the actual tape I use a heat gun to soften it up first so it pulls off a lot easier. This works on any vinyl striping tape or pinstripe tape. Masking tape, not so much. After that I use Dupont Prep-Sol for removing the residue. Prep-Sol is also used as a wax and grease remover. One other thing that works real well for removing the sticky stuff left behind from tape is to use duct tape. Stick it on and it'll pull the stuff right off :TU: Bill
Just to be "sure" we are talking apples - this would be sticky residue that hasn't been "waxed over" - or hasn't had "clear coat" or "laquer" applied over it. Now that we all are on the same page - WD-40 is an oil based solvent and lubricant - you can use it to remove the stickum - however, it IMMEDIATELY turns itself into a destroyer of paint. I use WD-40. Then I get rid of it with a good detergent bath of the area at least, and a large amount of rinsing water. On my car,I used it to get off a 10 year old AAA sticker residue. Then washed it, rinsed it, washed the area again, rinsed it, then waxed the entire trunk lid. A GOOD detergent comes from a powder box. Do NOT USE DISH SOAP on your car's paint. You didn't pay ALL THAT MONEY for paint to then abuse it ? This is one time that being a "scardey cat" will pay off in spades. That's my story. :Comp: :Comp: :Smarty: :Smarty: :Smarty: Rip Rohring
Why is detergent soap better than dish soap for your paint. Trying to understand this statement - "You didn't pay ALL THAT MONEY for paint to then abuse it "?
My comment regarding using detergent rather than dish soap comes from engineering types who worked with me at O-Cel-O Sponge while I worked there from 1977 to 1991. During that time, our professional types electrical and chemical engineers, conducted a long series of research projects regarding "dish soap" properties - chemicals in the bottles - and how they interacted with Waxes, Paints, and Clear Coats. They in parallel conducted numerous studies using detergent powders. The results were actually "internal documents", used to assist with our rework on additives we put in the sponges - algaecides, mold preventers, while keeping a "water" environment in the sponges. The secondary consideration was the use of O-Cel-O's mix of paper pulp, and recycled cloth pulp versus the use of the NEW PLASTIC SPONGES with holes in the plastic. A separate study dismissed the original Sponges (harvested from under the ocean) turned into calcified utensils that really scratched painted surfaces as soon as they dried a few times. Of course, the primary conclusions were that the O-Cel-O products - in conjunction with detergents, and the additives in the sponge packaging, produced a "cleaner car" with "LESS abrasion" to the paint, glas, and metal surfaces. A secondary conclusion was reached that a NEW product was introduced into O-Cel-O Packaging -a soap called Simple Green - brand new in the 1980's. Simple Green looked like dish soap, but was not. It removed many unuseful chemicals,, and added some much less harmful preservatives to the soap. Those studies were the reasons I made the comment. Do I KNOW that it is still true ? I do not - having left O-Cel-O two months after General Mills sold the company to 3M Corp. I would think that some of our members MIGHT BE using those plastic sponges on their cars. I would wonder if they realized those micro-scratches cause the clouding of the paint ? Perhaps some members hereabouts might be using dish soap on their cars - but do not realize that the chemical deposits on the roof, fender tops, hood and trunk - "burn off" during hot summer months ? When the chemicals vaporize, they take tiny paint molecules with the vapor ? Or maybe some folks get fading paint twice as quickly as they USED TO in the 1960's and they scratch their heads ? Paints of course have changed a LOT since the enamel era, into many other forms of paint. I would suggest that the studies done by O-Cel-O were probably performed against the older paint surfaces. Perhaps someone can contact their paint experts to see their opinion ? Maybe we could each "vote" as to what method and materials we use to wash our cars (assuming nobody takes their collector to the Car Wash). I would be willing to accept even anecdotal information that supports a different result. Personally, I use old t-shirts - doubled up - and made into mittens to wash my collector car's paint. I then wipe it off with very soft terry cloths to remove water spots. Oh yeah - I bought a gallon jug of Simple Green last year at B.J.'s - and use it to wash all 3 of my cars, and rinse well. . . Rip Rohring :Comp: :Smarty:
