Ground Straps???

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by jaystoy, Mar 19, 2010.

  1. jaystoy

    jaystoy Well-Known Member

    Hey anyone have a diagram of some sort. I don't remember where the 3 ground straps go on my 71 455 Lark?? Anyhelp would be great
     
  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Can't help you with the Skylark stuff, I only have one ground strap running from the back of the right cylinder head (passenger side) to the firewall.

    If there are other ground straps needed I'm not aware of their placement.

    Devon
     
  3. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    on my 72 gs i havd a ground strap from the engine to the firewall and from the engine to the frame.
     
  4. Golden Oldie 65

    Golden Oldie 65 Well-Known Member

    Might be one from the body to the frame but I'm not sure about `72 specific. Sometimes they are between one of the front fenderwells and the frame.
     
  5. dreeesh

    dreeesh Well-Known Member

    Theres Only One Ground Strap It Runs From The Passenger Side Head To The Lower Bolt On The Voltage Regulator
     
  6. RAbarrett

    RAbarrett Well-Known Member

    I strongly suggest installing ground straps for the frame, and the body, to the engine and the battery negative. The need can be checked simply by checking the voltage between the body and the battery negative, and the frame and the battery negative. It should not exceed .4 volts. Anything more indicates either a missing ground, or a defective one. Ray
     
  7. Ken Mild

    Ken Mild King of 18 Year Resto's

    Location? If one were to do it correctly, where would the location of the ground strap from the frame be to? If to the body, where on the body? If to the engine, where on the engine?

    The engine to the lower voltage regulator bolt is so far the only location that has been told for sure.

    Any help appreciated as I've always wondered this myself.
     
  8. mjt

    mjt Well-Known Member

    There's probably a number of considerations when
    a decision is made for routing ground straps. I have
    a couple of Z28's and the routing is as follows:

    a) Battery to just in front of the strut tower
    b) Passenger side lower-engine block to the
    frame side of the engine mount.
    c) Driver side mid engine block to fender well.
    d) PCM to engine block

    My Trooper is similar to the Z28s.

    My motorcycle (Hayabusa) has them:
    a) Battery to frame
    b) Engine block to frame
    c) PCM to frame
    (no "body" on the bike, so no need :)

    My '64 LaSabre has ground straps:
    a) Battery to fender well
    b) Passenger side rear of block to firewall
    c) Driver side engine block to frame

    I'd say Ray's is the definitive answer.
     
  9. SCOTTFISHER

    SCOTTFISHER Well-Known Member

    "Ditto"
     
  10. Buiyak

    Buiyak Well-Known Member

    I assume you are like me and ordered the 3 strap kit from Parts Place for my 1970 GS and have no idea where the other 2 go ?
    The ordered part in catalog said Buick then package comes and says 69-72 Chevelle.

    So only 1 then guys ?
    Dave
     
  11. RAbarrett

    RAbarrett Well-Known Member

    Something to consider here is the need for the ground straps. Measuring voltage drops is the way to go, and knowing whether one is needed is the place to start. Measure the voltage between the battery, frame and body, and if the voltage exceeds 1 volt, put a strap between the offending parts. With all of the accessories on, use a DVM across good metallic components to determine the voltage across them. If it exceeds .6 volts, a ground strap is wise; if it exceeds 1 volt, it is mandatory.
     
  12. jaystoy

    jaystoy Well-Known Member

    You are correct Dave. I just ended up using the one.
     
  13. tom_gonzalez@ve

    tom_gonzalez@ve Well-Known Member

    There can never be too many grounds. In place of performing a voltage check you can also do a resistance check from all electrical components on/near the engine to the engine, chassis and body. Any resistance is not good and causes the voltages you see doing the voltage test. Opposite side of the same coin, but helpful none the less.
     
  14. RAbarrett

    RAbarrett Well-Known Member

    Tom, you are correct, but it becomes a problem of measurement. The lead resistance can cover up excessive resistance, where the added current of the operating accessories makes the voltage drop method easier to perform. If, for example, the resistance between two points is .3 ohms, which is difficult to measure with most meters, and the amperage is 20 amps, which is typical, the resulting voltage drop is .3 ohms times 20 amps, which is a six volt drop. You can see that, if the applied voltage is 14 volts, and the drop is six, we have essentially lost nearly half the intended energy. Though you are correct, Tom, regarding the resistance, the problem is one of measurement.
     
  15. tom_gonzalez@ve

    tom_gonzalez@ve Well-Known Member

    Like I said two sides of the same coin. Most digital multi-meters today are sophisticated enough to give accurate resistance readings as low as .3 Ohms. The reason I said check all resisitance points is that one compnent or ground cable can have great conductivity to ground and another component or ground a higher resistance which will effect only the individual item. The overall ground resistance for the block to chassis or body could be fine but an individual item ground could not be good and it would not show reading the voltages on the 2 sides of the main ground cable(s).
     

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