Chrome Rally wheel restoration guide Part 2 Reproduction wheels To make reproduction wheels, I use centers from original Buick wheels that are carefully cleaned, reconditioned, and repainted correct satin black in the lug nut pockets. This preserves the original look of the satin/brushed finish chrome spokes and ring that welds to the outer shell. The back side is media blasted clean and painted silver. I only use the correct style center for the model year wheel being made. That is 1970 and older center for WG style, or 71-80 center for 71 and newer wheel. Outer rim shells are new reproduction parts from the leading US steel wheel producer. The new rims are machine welded to the centers in one continuous bead with proper penetration for maximum strength. The weld bead is covered with silver paint as was done originally. All this provides the most accurate reproduction wheel available. FAQs Q; Can I get custom backspace? A; Yes, within reason. The drop center width of the shell determines where they can be set. Q; Why dont you make big car wheels? A; They are a totally different construction that does not allow a safe way to make wider. Q; Are the replacement shells exactly the same as original. A; No. The front face is slightly different. To make the wheel look as correct as possible I have to alter the back space a little to compensate for this difference. Q; Some reproduction wheels have had rust issues, will yours? A; Some people have reported rust issues on other makers wheels. I have not examined any in person so can not determine why it happened. EVERYONE who is making Buick wheels uses the same rim shells. They are not Chinese, they are made in USA. The biggest problem with modern chrome is that it is trivalent chrome as opposed to the more durable hexavalent chrome which is also more hazardous (banned). Unfortunately we will never again have the durable chrome that came on our original wheels and bumpers. There are steps I take in the manufacturing of the wheel that minimize the risk of rust issues. That being said they are the only option. There is not enough volume for anyone else to tool up and produce these. If we lose the current source we will have NOTHING at all. Q; How should I store my wheels for the winter? A; If your garage is not heated, your best bet is to move the wheels into a heated space for the winter. You will get condensation every day even if you do not see it, especially in the springtime. Keep them as dry as possible. Q; How should I clean my wheels? A; Clean your wheels the same as you clean your car. Mild car wash soap is all you should use. Do not use high pressure power washers. Never use brake dust removal sprays, steel wool, or scotchbrite type products. Apply non abrasive auto wax the same as if it were the paint on the car. Q; Will the new wheels balance properly? A; When balancing this type of wheel you must mount it to the machine using the 5 stud holes for proper balance. NOT the center hole. All the original wheels Ive checked were in balance to less than 1 oz. I check and correct mine to that standard. Also, tire stores today mostly see machined alloy wheels and think steel wheels are bent when they see the wheel lip not perfectly true. The only place to measure these wheels is the vertical surface that the outer tire bead seats on. This is held to .040 MAX. I'm the only wheel maker who will tell you all this because I want you to know what you are getting and why. I build every wheel I sell personally so I know what went into them. As in part 1, I speak only for myself and what I do. Others vendors may offer other services. Stay tuned for part 3 which will have a complete and accurate list of specs and explain the year to year differences.
