I have the manuals and everything, I think I have the problem diagnosed but it's really curious to me that I have recently read all sorts of problems with GEN lights being on and now I have a charging problem- but no GEN light :laugh: I have the light if I turn the key to ACC, but if the key is ON I have no light, and when I start the car, the light is barely visible for a second, much dimmer than 1/2 bright. Since I can start the car, I'm guessing it's not the wire to the ignition :grin: So that leaves me with the brown wire to the voltage regulator and/or the voltage regulator itself, especially since my battery is also not charging past 12v while running at present, when last week it was 14v while running I'm leaning towards the regulator being bad, because if the light is off, that means that voltage is the same at the 3 and 4 terminals- but I'm not getting the light bright enough while starting, which means something ain't kosher, and it's not half bright in the ON position, so I know that something is getting equal voltage when it shouldn't. Haven't studied it enough to know if it's the #3 or the 4 off the top of my head, I think it's the 4 that waits for the relay on 3, but I forget right now...hopefully I won't have to know it that well :grin: Now I have the voltage regulator location adventure. All the places around here tell me that the regulator's in my alternator
Chris, if you have the old style alternator you will have an external regulator. it will be on your firewall to the right (facing firewall) of the vacuum canister for your heating system prolly right above the heater control valve. It's a rectangular steel box with one screw holding the cover on and a single plug with 4 or 5 wires going to it. It maybe time to just swap in a GM style internally regulated alternator. (did this early on my car) you do need to jumper two pins on the alternator and then jumper two wires together at the old regulator plug. there are sites all over on the internet telling how to do this. the problem is finding an alternator with two a dual groove pully since your just looking for a random alt to work. An 86 chevy truck alt for example should work but may only have a single groove pully.
Nate- Thanks. You have misunderstood my post, though. I know exactly what the regulator is, how it works, and where it is- (it should have two screws holding the black cover on, and it should read "Delco-Remy" in staggered script) It's the parts stores that think it's in the alternator, not me I have asked for a voltage regulator and been given the internal type by the counter help in the past. The location adventure is getting the right part at the store. The last time I got one, I asked if it was solid state or not (you can adjust the non-solid state ones). The dude looked at me like I was speaking french. He said "No, this is a voltage regulator" :laugh: I've also had to take my whole wiring harness into a parts store before to find the right dimmer switch because they refused to believe their book was wrong. Never a dull moment
Hey Chris, have you taken your alternator to a good auto electric shop to have it tested? (ignore the generator light for a moment, I don't trust those things anyway). If you had one of those voltage regulator jumpers, you could unplug it and take it out of the circuit and then test the voltage across your battery while the car is running. If it's still 12 volts or so, it's your alternator. Only other thing it could be if your alternator and voltage regulator are both good, is the harness. o No: Sorry if I told you something you already know.
I don't know everything, but I'm not ruling out the alternator It's just that right now, the system is telling me something's wrong and I interpret it as the regulator. I really, really hope it's not the harness. The forward harness isn't that bad to replace; I just don't want to do it. The starter motor wiring will be a nightmare- my headers are such a tight fit to the heat sheild. Ug, it makes me cringe just thinking about it I tried to price out regulators today :laugh: One guy told me it wasn't a regulator I needed, it was a regulator pigtail, they have to order it, and it's $14.99. I told him it's an external regulator and he said "No" :grin: The next place told me they had them. I asked what amperage units they listed. "Amperage? I thought you wanted a voltage regulator, not an amperage regulator". Buh-bye :laugh:
What Ken is reffering to is called "full fielding" the alternator. Its a small plastic tool that most of the old timers will have in their toolboxes. BillMah52 prolly has one :grin: Its plugs into the voltage regulator pigtail and makes the alternator generate maximum output. Essentially, you want to determine if the alternator is capable of working properly.
If you end up needing a new voltage regulator, get a Wells VR715. Should run you about $10 to $12, and it's solid-state, so nothing to adjust.
Thank you for all your help I am actually regretting posting because this has been taken the wrong way. please don't think I'm unappreciative
