hammerite vs. por15 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi. Im going to paint my frame in the near future. Im thinking about using Hammerite because it is about the price of por15 here in Europe. Do any of you guys know how good hammerite is compared to por15? Dan. Buick skylark 66' GS conv. 4speed manual. triple black. matching numbers. (only 431 made) :3gears:
The arguments for and against POR, etc could go on forever. Here is my take--POR "prevents" rust by sealing off the metal from the air--it does nothing to the rust itself (ie--it doesn't react with the rust and somehow magically convert it into something else). POR is a one part moisture-cured urethane paint..that is how they can use the sales pitch "it gets harder when exposed to water". Well, it does---when it is drying!(ie the more humid the air the quicker it cures)--once it is dried or cured it does not "react" to the presence of moisture in some magical way...it's just dried paint at that point...nothing more. POR does form a pretty good and tough surface however so as a protector from the elements it seems to do a pretty good job. Hammerite, I think, is probably an enamel type paint. It seems to be pretty durable also...but once again--like POR, there is not some magical property to this paint that "kills rust" etc----like POR---it's paint---a coating. So--in either case, these paints would be fine---they will probably do what you want as long as they STAY ADHERED TO THE METAL AND MAINTAIN THE BARRIER between the metal and the outside elements. Hammerite has a certain "look" to it..if that is what you want. Each of these paints has certain recommended preparation steps. Hammerite probably doesn't have the isocyanates in it if it is an enamel--and it's easier to get off (both of these paints come off your skin with some lacquer thinner---POR seems to take a little more scrubbing to remove). What type of prep to the metal were you planning on doing? Patton
I don't believe anything can stop rust permanently. But I used Por15 on a frame after I sandblasted it and must say I was quite pleased except for the paint that wouldn't wash off my hands or face for a couple days. ou: I did some research on the web before buying it and there is people that don't like it and say it don't work. Others says it works great and I'm one of them. If you have a clean roughened surface so it has something to bite to it works great. Just follow the directions to the letter. Ray
Maybe one of our resident chemists can jump in here, but from observing how POR15 lays down and how well it sticks, I wonder if part of it is an ability to seep into the smallest poors of the metal? Being so thin that it can completely seal whatever it is put on (and not letting water in).
I think I will try and go with that por15 stuff.. Any ideas how much I will need of : Marine clean , Metalready and the black paint for the entire frame and the floors inside and out? Dan. Car is a 66 skylark :Smarty:
I've been researching Rust Bullet, this stuff is suppose to stop rust. "Stop Rust and Corrosion with Rust Bullet-a rust repair rust remover corrosion inhibitor, which acts as a rust paint corrosion solution industrial coating." www.rustbullet.com. They have the only U.S. patent on rust inhibiting paint. I'm going to try it on the steel frame of my flat bed trailer. Bruce
rust What about Eastwoods rust enapsulator? Has anyone one the board used it, it's supposed to be as good if not better than Por15.
I tried some "rust treatment" many years ago. I'm not convinced it worked. I think the best thing is to just get rid of as much rust as you can, and then try to seal the metal as best you can.
I've used Eastwood's rust encapsulator primer and it worked really well. Hammerite is also available in a smooth finish and this seems to work better than the dimple finish version which I have found can dimple so thin that water can penetrate and then it just rusts again. I've had friends who have had the Hammerite paint flake off, especially around exhausts or on any part which might move or flex like suspension arms or whatever. Itsets hard, but is brittle if you brake it then it comes away in fairly big chunks. I've just bought some POR15 black to do my suspension arms and frame ends with on another project. Always get 99.9999999% of the rust out, treat with something like Jenolite or your favourite rust converter than use a encapsulator type product like POR15, Eastwoods or Hammerite.
yes i know that hammerite comes in a smooth version.. didnt know it will flake of like that? anybody out there had any good experience with hammerite? :beer
