The rear main seal on my '68 Special has been leaking,especially at speeds over 50 MPH. I decided to replace the rear main seal with one from TA Performance. I've read several previous threads about this project so I decided to attempt this with the engine still in the car. Everything was going great until I attempted to remove the upper rope seal. This car sat idle for quite a few years up until 2 years ago when I bought it. Less than 50,000 original miles on the engine,but the main cap rope seal is dried out and smoothed down. This is why I'm having such a problem getting the upper seal out. I've tried tapping with a punch on one side, but still not enough of the seal to grab with needle nose pliers on the other. Here's my question: Do I have to loosen all the main bearing caps to get the crankshaft to drop just a little so the upper rope seal can be removed? Will this harm the engine in anyway. Any ideas will be appreciated.-----------Thanks--------Mac o No:
Screw a small sheet metal screw or wood screw in one end of the rope seal. This gives you something to pull on. Turn the crank in the same direction as you are pulling.
Rear Main Seal Dwayne, I tried that exact same thing this afternoon, but I haven't loosened any other main bearing caps except the rear main. Rope seal still wouldn't move. Do I need to loosen the other main caps-------Mac o No:
I can't imagine doing this with the engine in the car. A buddy and I did this last year to my 350 along with a few other items. Even with the engine flipped on a stand, a removal tool screwed into the rope to pull with, and the caps loosened, it was a PITA to pull that piece out. Good luck.
350 Rear Main Seal Well, I tried the sheet metal screw trick again. After a while the upper rope seal was out more than a half inch. After slicing my right thumb knuckle a good one inch gash.....I pulled like hell and the whole seal slid out. It was like "Christmas morning and I got everything that I wanted" Tomorrow I'll put the TA Performance seal in. Thanks for all the info............Mac
I see that by the time I got here, you already had it out, but... I did the same job 4 months ago, engine in car. Wasn't too bad, but yes, you can loosen the mains and it'll help quite a bit. Especially if you're swapping out the bearings (that's when it becomes a PITA, the #1 and #2 bearings are just above the crossmember... :rant: ) Is the TA seal the same as the Ford 460 seal? That's what I used. Good so far... :laugh:
Buick Rear Main Seal Jason, I think you are right because the one I got from T/A had a Ford part number on it, AL. :Brow:
Oil Pump Question I have the TA Performance seal installed. Easy installation. I now have a question about the oil pump. I had to loosen all of the mains and turn the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation, several times to get the old seal out. Does the oil pump have to be packed with petroleum jelly before engine startup?????......................Mac
[QUOTE='68 Special]Does the oil pump have to be packed with petroleum jelly before engine startup?????......................Mac[/QUOTE] No, but it might be a good idea to crank the engine over for a few seconds with the coil wire removed to build pressure back up, and get oil down on the bearings.
350 rear main seal Darryl, Thanks for the info. After all the hard work to replace the rear main seal with the engine still in the car, I guess it wouldn't hurt to pack the oil pump before the initial startup. "Better to be safe than sorry"............Mac
"They" have always told me to pack it w/ petroleum jelly because of the "remote" oil pump on Buicks, fwiw. o No: I thought I'd be smart and use assembly lube once. ou: Bad idea, it got into the lifters, I had lotsa lifter noise until it got warm enough to melt the assy lube. Stick with petroleum Jelly, it dissolves in oil immediately.
It may also fit a 351 Cleveland, but I can confirm the Ford 460 fit. See this thread for part numbers.
Mac I also have to change the rear seal in my 455 except it is already a neoprene one so it should be easier (I hope). When you did this did you lift the engine any? What did you remove? With the body all nice and shiny I really don't want to pull the motor and risk any scratches. Thanks Rick
I pulled the motor mount bolts, put a jack under the front pulley, and raised the engine just enough to get the pan out, then sat it back down. Changed out the rear seal no problem from below, just watch out for oil drips. :laugh: If it's really tough, you may want to loosen the main bearing caps a bit to gain some slack when removing/installing the upper seal. Be sure to offset the parting lines about 1/4 inch from the bearing cap / block parting line.
350 Rear Main Seal Rick, I took the bolts out of the motor mounts and raised the block using a floor jack under the harmonic balancer. I then put two 2x4 pieces of wood between the mounts and the engine block and slowly let the jack down. Then I jacked the car up enough to have room to work under it supporting it on jack stands.The oil pan can be easily removed then by moving it toward the rear of the car. I then removed the oil splash cover and then the rear main bearing cap. I screwed a sheet metal screw into the old seal on the passenger side,attached a strong piece of coat hanger to the screw,the other end to a pry bar. While I turned the engine by hand,I pulled on the pry bar resting against the outside of the block ,working the old seal out. Neoprene should be easier than my old rope seal. Be careful of the engine block edges .They are sharp.I found out the hard way. One inch gash on my right thumb............Good luck.......Mac :TU:
