Hey guys, greetings from South America, Perú A 3 years ago a friend and I were found a 1970 Buick Skylark on these conditions: (Those vertical bumpers weren't attached with weld, it’s just collocated over the rear bumper) At the moment that the vehicle was moved to our city (this car was found in a coast zone of the country, that’s why the deteriorated state of several parts of the sheet metal) we didn’t realize the issue of dangerous recommendations, so “thanks” to one of those situations the car was delivered to a place where literally it was just refilled with body-filler. Unfortunately, this event happened in the middle of the quarantine period, at that moment I wasn’t in the city without the possibility of supervise the job on detail. (images sent for the first "bodycar" guy) Sadly, the “bodycar” guy put a lot of excuses abandoned the job and left it in a unknown garage; we recovered the car after 2 weeks and the guy just disappeared without clue of his existence. Anyways, we found another place, the owner is a guy with a lot of sheet metal experience, welding and imitate the correct shape of some parts, but he noticed about the excess of body filler, rusty parts everywhere and also problems on the roof for rust as well (seems like the car came with factory vinyl top). Welder job on the roof, transplant from a 1969 Malibu Therefore, there are still several parts with rust behind some sheet metal areas, I saw a few products for transform the rust, even in spray, I don’t know if you can suggest some similar products to avoid the grinder process for remove the rust. At this moment I would like to know if you consider if cut both of the quarter panels to find more rust and deteriorated parts will be a good idea, I saw several processes that includes this type of work, please let me know. Rust behind the sheet metal, Can I apply some spray rust converter? For avoid grinding process? Looks like the frame doesn't have the proper job, if someone can suggest a proper way to remove it please let me know, I have the idea to build a Dolly Cart, separate the frame of the body and put it body over the cart. Also, seems like the previous “bodywork” included the frame, as you notice the materials used wasn’t proper for the job. Recently, with a help of a welder, a friend and I built a homemade rotisserie for some cars, I would like to know if is possible to separate at this moment the frame of the body and if is possible that the current bodycar guy will be able to work the rest of the car without the frame. I would like to change the front drum brakes with disc brakes, add a couple of rear control arm for a 4 speed and change the rear unit as well. Talking about the rotisserie, Could you recommend me a pair of proper front and rear rotisserie brackets? It would be great if is not necessary to remove the front fenders for not disassembly the aligned work of the front pieces. From what I know, the exterior layer of the floor wasn’t worked, so it will be terrific to cleaned, weld it if is necessary and sealed with accurate materials for avoid future rust. (referential image) Finally, I would like to read your reviews about some proper companies who can offer a 1970 GS fiberglass exterior layer hood reproduction, since there’s no original or clone exemplar in the entire country (and probably in the continent) I would like to make a 1970 GS350 tribute, with 4 speed and 3.55 final ratio with POSI unit. I will appreciate your commentaries. Regards, Cesar
Admire your enthusiasm! 350 4-sp & good gearing (I'd go to 3.73) is a fun combo. You'd be better off just fabricating the arms at this point. No need really for disk brakes unless you'll be doing repeated hard braking. You'd undoubtedly find similarly rusted flanges if taking off the quarters but not sure I'd do it (I'm in the same position on one of mine). Tough decision as you don't want to find bubbles appearing not long after doing the paint & bodywork. I see you have the same problems w/bodyshops down there as we have here.
Wow, that must be one rare car in Peru! Those who successfully make do with what they have available are the real heroes in this hobby. That puts you and your determination high on the list.
I really appreciate your words Dano, tubecatgs and Adam! Sean, I'm really grateful with your recommendation, I will make the consulting about it. I will probably need to remove the frame with the help of a car elevator, not without before build a proper interior tubular structure for avoid deformations. Passing the holidays I will keep you informed about the progress in the project, hope that I will be able to find a proper rear end unit for the car on these days.
Yw. You'll be ok lifting the body being it's a hardtop. It's the convertibles that need bracing. I'd talk to @BrianTrick about building you an 8.5 rear. You'll need a '71-2 driveshaft too. Shipping (LCL ocean freight) might not be too bad. Maybe could consolidate w/some other stuff you need.
Excellent suggestion Dano! Again thanks a lot! I will exhaust the search for a proper 8.5 unit here, if I don't have fortune in my detailed exploration here I will contact Brian for the possibility to build a special rear end and find a proper driveshaft as well. Regards, Cesar
Hey guys, I have some news about the project, a few months ago I decided to take the car out of the body shop, since the guy (owner of the place) delay for finish the work for several months without any substantial advance. Since the car is in base coat would be fine for finish several parts, such as separate the body from the frame and repaint all the frame, putting an 8.5 unit, front disc kit and renew all the bushings for the front and rear suspension, adding new fuel and brake lines, putting the body on the rotisserie that my friend and I designed, working properly on the floor, interior and missing parts, adding undercoating, the correct transmission tunnel for bench seat 4 speed, and, if arrives without problems, putting a GS fiberglass hood. Also, we modified the original 14 inches magnum Buick wheels to 15 inch with a little negative offset, 7" front and 8" rear. This current tire is 255/60R15, it was used for sample only, it would be fine, but perhaps the correct size would be 255/70R15, or 275/60R15. If you have any suggestions about the correct bracket mountings for GM A body would be terrific, or at least some indications for the position for an adequate mounting on the rotisserie would be awesome! Regards, Cesar
This is the rotisserie that my and I designed a few months ago, finally operating holding a 1973 Dodge Coronet body, coming soon the 1970 Buick GS350 4 speed tribute
That’s awesome Cesar! What is your climate like in Peru? I’m an ignorant American lolol I like getting to know other hobbyists in the car field from around the globe, it doesn’t have to be just Buicks, any make is interesting to me. Your color looks nice on your Buick, but I’d get clear on that asap (as soon as possible) you’ll have to scuff it and reapply more base then the clear.
Really appreciate your kindness Mark, a pleasure to share with you the details. The car was found in Tacna, with temperatures from 82 to 48° and more than 80% of humidity. Then it was taken to Arequipa, the current where it is, 7500 feet above the sea level, from 77 to 41° with an average of 55% of humidity, similar to Texas, and you're totally right about the reapply more base, first I would like to fix some details from the interior, exterior, take the frame off the body for make all the pending job (swap the BOP rear end for a 8.5 unit, install the new brake/fuel lines, changing all the suspension bushings, front disc installation, installing the rebuilt 350 engine with the Muncie M20, the driveshaft, etc) and meanwhile working on the interior, electric system, etc. My friend and I have several american project cars here so it's really gratifying be able to repair these awesome vehicles. Cesar
I have been to a wonderful car museum in Lima, owned by Jorge Nicolini. Over 120 cars, many are rare cars for Perú or anywhere and makes I had never seen. The Nicolini family owns a large pasta business. Randomly the museum’s curator was ill that day so Mr Nicolini gave my brother and I a personal tour, fantastic. He told us all about each car, how he got and restored it. He has a complete restoration shop with 10 plus people. He makes everything, he even has his own chrome shop. Here’s a link in English https://www.limaeasy.com/lima-guide.../vintage-cars-museum-nicolini#google_vignette He had a Rivi his parents owned that still needed to be restored.
Yes, the Nicolini Museum, as you said he have a complete restoration shop with all kind of technician, and also the chrome shop, I will probably need their service for my bumpers once I finish the engine and drivetrain of the car.
He was such a gracious man. I bet he spent more than 90 minutes with us. The more questions I asked the more he was excited to show us. I have some great pictures. He signed a copy of his book too.
