Could I get some help for a buddy on a '72 Skylark? Here's the question: Does you know much about the door latch mechanism on these things? It looks ridiculously over-complicated to do the job it does... The problem we're having is that every so often it jams up and neither the outside nor the inside actuator will open the door. I can see where it's sticking, but I can't get my arm in there to do anything about it. From what I can see by poking it with a screwdriver, it's got a LOT of play in it. Do you think I can just grease it up, or can it be adjusted any way?
mechanism Your kind of vauge on you door problem, But a common problem with two door buicks is they are very heavy for the hinges. Your door is probably saging and out of adjustment. Check for sag by watching the door as you open it. If it falls down at all when it is being opened, then they should be shimed to close correctly. If that is not your problem, take your inner door panels off , roll your window all the way up and watch what is happening. It is always a good Idea to spray down the inside mechanism with wd-40 or an eqivelent. Also use white lithium grease on the outside mechanism to keep it moving freely. The white litheum grease will stay in place and won't freeze when it gets cold. Hope this helps. Randy :TU:
Sorry for the vaugeness, but the question is not mine originally. I don't think the problem is with the mounting of the door, I think we need information regarding the linkages:
Did you change the outside door handles. I had this problem once after I changed the door handles. The rod that comes out of the door button jammed on the lever for the latch assembly and everything locked up solid. I had to take the door panel off, while the door was closed and take everything apart from inside the car. I have also had this happen when the latch assembly broke. Getting it apart was not pretty. Duane
duane is right,it happen to me also how i got it fixed was a little scary but it worked for me.was one person on the outside push button and pull (but becareful as the handle looks like its gonna rip off.)and then i went inside and pulled handle and threw my shoulder for little shoulder charge and it popped open then fix the inside.or try to take door panel off (but if i rember right they are also hard to get off while door is shut.i messed around for like 3 hrs then it opened.good luck
The latch mechanism itself is probably cracked or wore out. Take it out of the door and inspect it very closely and you should find the problem. Mike
Joe, does it seem like the thing is getting stuck or just has so much play in it that it's not engaging fully to move the latch? I've never had a problem with my Buick but when I was a kid I had a bunch of Mopars. I had problem with at least one door on 3 of them. In some cases I lost a bushing or clip the allowed too much travel in the mechanism and it wouldn't release the latch. In any case I think it would be best to pull the inner panel and check the operation of the handles from the inside. Good luck :TU:
I had this same thing happen to me last fall when I was visiting my brother in my 72 Stage 1. The door latch mechanism stuck and I couldn't get the door open even with putting my shoulder into it from inside the car. I ended up removing the door panel from inside the car with the door still closed. Not hard to do, but not any fun either. Once the door panel was removed, I could see that the outside door handle and the inside handle were doing their job but the latch itself was not tripping the latch mechanism to release the door. As it turned out, my latch mechanism was just plain wore out. I ended up buying a 70 door latch mechanism from a fellow board member and replacing the original. Works fine now but am on the lookout for a 72 mechanism so I can retain lock feature of not having to hold the door button in to lock the door. Hope this helps you! Larry
Pull the door panel, remove the mechanism behind the inside door handle (3 bolts) and rotate clockwise to clear the original holes about 1/2", drill new mounting holes. This effectively "SHORTENS" the rod that activates the latch. More detail if you want.. write me. It's worked on my GS and a buddy's GTO and W-30.
color Hey Gary, SSSWWWEEETTT Car man!! What color is that on your 70 STAGE 1? Do you have any pictures of your Willy Jeep???? Randy :TU:
Randy, Thanks. That's Hugger (Chevy :shock: ) Orange. Looks more red in pictures than it actually is. The Willys pickup is apart right now. But then so is the GS and the Riviera: new body bushings and detailing the GS undercarriage, and ALL new suspension paint, hard parts (shocks, springs, tie rods, idler, centerlink, bushings, etc.) and 455 transplant in the Riviera. Not much longer on those two, then I can get started on the Willys. The Willys will have a Buick 3.8L V6 from an '80 Olds, stock 4bbl w/Qjet, Dana 44 front end (with disc brakes) in 4.09, Ford 9" rear 4.10, Dana 300 transfer case, BOP TH350. Will probably end up with 33" tires. I have all the running gear, including the engine, trans, xfer case and differentials, engine mounts and new front springs from Willys America. I'll use the stock rear springs which have 11, yes 11 leafs. Some folks do a spring over axle conversion but I want to keep it safe as possible from rollover. It should still be plenty capable and not too radical for my wife to drive to work if she wants. It's going to be her rig and handed off to our grandson someday.. he's heavy into trucks. Been crawling under them at carshows since he was 3 or 4, asking about engines, etc. Should be a cool ride. Just homely enough to be bad. If this picture will post you can see what I started with.
