I'm needing some info folks .... I'm close to painting my frame finally ! Anyway, Should I use a Metal Etcher on it before painting it with Chassis Paint ? Should I use Ospho , Rust Mort , or Por 15 Metal ready . Do I need to neutralize it with baking soda after it's dried ? I'm worried about adhesion ,I don't want to do it over again . I'll be using hardener in the paint for added gloss . Steve
After sandblasting mine. (What a mess) I used Por15's metal prep. It has zinc in it. The I hand painted the frame with Por15 (for 2 1/2 hrs., then sprayed 2 additional coats with what I had left over in the bowl I was using thinning it with their solvent. Used up less than a 1/4 gallon. I think is the paint is pretty amazing. Ray
I think the POR needs another topcoat as it never was UV resistant. I know the frame is mostly hidden but more potection would be good as well. Eastwood sells a whole system to paint a frame. The stuff is pretty good and is UV resistant.
when I get to my frame....(soon I hope) I plan on using eastwoods chassis epoxy black primer and then a few light coats of thier extreme chassis black in satan finish... if ya have slight rust or pitting in frame maybe their rust encapsualtor....
Bare Metal Frame Sorry should have said what I'm using . I have two types of paint ,1 qt. of Por 51 Chassis Black and 1/2gl. Valspar Sun Glo Modified Alkyd Enamel . I used the Valspar about 18 mo. ago on my 72' Lark that had to be sold .I ran a hardener with the Valspar for added gloss it came out great . So I'm thinking of going with that actually . Thanks for your help . Man , I'm chompin' at the bit ! Still got my rear upper control arms,rear end,spindles and frame to shoot . Finally getting some good weather to work with . Steve
O.K i'll chime in here for the anal aproach. I had mine sandblasted then epoxy primed it. Spray filled(sprayable filler) the entire frame. Then hand/ machine sanded the entire frame, followed by 3 coats of high build primer, sanded all that down then shot it with 3 coats of semi gloss urethane black. Looks totally factory smooth with no imperfections. A arms and control arms get the same treatment. Gotta get rid of those pits :Brow:
I agree about the pits. If you are doing a show car they should be dealt with but probably not real necessary for a driver. I used to sandblast the frames, now I have them acid-dipped and ecoated so they get all the rust and grime off, inside and out. After that I repair any bad areas and go over the pitted areas with some 36 grit on a grinder to smooth them out a little, then prime with 3 coats of Dupont URO high build primer, wet sand the entire frame by hand with 400 grit, and paint with Dupont Centari flat black acrylic enamel that is hardened with a gloss hardener. It's more durable mixed this way than it is by just flattening the gloss black and it doesn't scratch nearly as easy. I know, it's a lot of work and it takes more time but I think it's worth it. I just hate looking at a nicely restored car only to see rust clearly visible through the access holes in the frame and pits on the surface that otherwise looks super nice. I believe in going the extra mile. Bill
Bare Metal Frame Painting . Some may think it's Anal,but it's the way I'd do it too . I'm under the impression that maybe we should start a club for our special types . We can call it "ARC" ! AKA as the "Anal Retentive Club" . It just doesn't make sense if the car is down to bare bones not to do the frame etc. Because it's not outta sight outta mind .Someone will see the under carriage eventually . It's like detailing an engine and having a "Skanky" looking engine bay .I've gotten the upper rear control arms blasted,washed and rinsed . I need to do the spindles and the rear diff .Got my High Zinc content Primer and hardner today . But it may be a few days before I can get into washing the final parts . Big Storms on their way and we're under Tornado Watch until late . Stay Cool , Steve
On my 54 F100, here is the method that I used: 1) Sandblast with a pressure blaster 2) Dupont Metal Wash 3) Eastwood's Coorless, it's called something else now (2 coats). It had some fill properties, if fact you had to thin it. The new replacement product is not as thick. 4) Eastwood's Chassis Black Really came out nice, 4 years later still looked like I had just done it. Here's a picture Rich
Bare Metal Painting Hey that looks fantastic Rich ! :TU: Love the F100's . I could picture one with a 351W EFI .Compu Cam/ a Gibson Exhaust/maybe some better injectors and Ignition system .Back it up to AOD converter and a "kit" and it would pull excellant . My 94 E.B. Bronco 4x4 has that drive train in it and I get close to 400 miles on a full tank (I think on a hiway trip it could make it over the 400 mile mark if I held it right at 70mph.) For a 94' with 154K on it it's No Slouch and it's actually a "Mountain Goat" But then the OD has been built a bit and a Locker in the rear helps a bit more . It outpulls my 83 Blazer with a mild 350 that was a fantastic set-up for a 4x4 hands down . Anyway I've been over at Autobody101.com too they've also been a great help . I'm hitting the shop early tomorrow AM to touch up a few spots missed on the frame ,give it a real good washing get it dried and metal etch it . Once that's dried I'll wash it with soda to neutralize any etch that needs to be cleared before the final primer and Glossed Chassis Black .
Arc HehHehHe Bill same ere' most folks just "Gear Down" Anals' too bland and most couldn't spell Retentive much less the meaning so they just give me the Ol Tried and True Direct Approach . :laugh: You up near Panama City? I lived in Lake City,Branford,Panama City then in Callaway for 4 years . Steve
I tried to sand blast my frame yesterday. my air compressor dosen't have a air dryer so the blaster would get cloged up all the time. I diden't get to far befor I gave up. Anyone do sandblasting in MN? Any one know how much this would cost to have done? I am bumed out I was hoping to have it painted this weekend,and start assembling it next weekend.
Sand Blasting Hey bob ,sorry to hear about that .I had the same problem on my homemade Sand Blaster . I ordered an Air Dryer from Harbor Freight it was like $40.00 and it does a good job . I know the info doesn't do you any good now but when you get the chance get one . Also if you can make up some cooling/condensate lines with either 3/4" sched. 40 PVC or 3/4"-1/2" galvenized steel pipe , and 2 Ball Valves for drains . If you need some ideas on how to make them let me know . Overall you need about 30' of cooling line with 2 water traps . I'm thinking about adding an Air Dryer between the compressor and the tank with a water trap and a ball valve . Between wind storms,torrential rain, hail and watching for tornados I washed my frame 3 times . I'll metal etch it and do a final wash with baking soda to neutralize any etcher that doesn't dry after a couple of days . IF the weather is decent I'll try and have it painted and back together by late next week or early the week after . I'm not in a real hurry it won't see black top until next year . :ball:
Yes I would like to know how to make some cooling/condensate lines. I don't know when mine will see the blacktop. At the rate I am going it will be a long time.
I brought my frame to a sand blaster yesterday. Thanks for the phone # Rich! $175 for the frame and the rearend. I thought that was reasonable. Beats the heck out of spitting sand for a week! That is one messy job! What is the metal etch and final wash with baking soda do? Is this a must do type thing? I was going to epoxie primer it, and fill in the pits with Durriglass then paint it chassis black. Hopefully I can start to assemble it next week. What did you guys do on the inside of the frame? Mine is boxed in so I cant get to a lot of it. Thanks for the help.
