Hello, my name is Joe and I'm a new member. I have always liked the Buick V8's and owned a few growing up and also had a 70' GS. The car had a 350, and I wanted a 455, so I found one in a bone yard and took it to a machine shop to have it done over. This was in the late 80's and I can't remember all I had done to the engine. Due to the starting of my family I had to sell the car; which by the way went to a good home and has since been restored. I keept the engine and have dragged it around the country and it has moved with me everytime I've had to move. Anyway, I'm getting the itch to complete the engine and put it in a Buick and I want to know what I have and what it's capable of. I checked the block #'s and these are from the rear of the engine where the trans bolts one; 455/ 1241735, heads 1246322, by the hole where the distributor goes in 1246055. I know I had the shop install forged pistons, the #'s on them are 2362P .030 . The heads have double valve springs and a valve job, I think the decked the heads too. It has a high lift crane hydrualic cam. I think about .550 lift. I can't find the cam card so thats all I know. I had it all balanced, but how much can the stock rotating assembly handle? Are those heads any good? and If not what can be done to them. How about rods, crank ect. Any help would be appreciated. I would like to build it to be just on the edge of being streetable. Thanks, Joe.
Hey Joe, Welcome! It looks like the motor is 72-74 as per: http://www.atlantabuick.com/CastingNumbers.htm The heads would be the open chamber 75-76 castings, which normally yield much lower compression. If they've had work done, you'd want to cc the heads to find out how much volume the chambers actually hold - the same goes for the block since it could have been decked (head surface cut down to increase compression and give the heads a clean mating surface).
What's the best(easiest) way to cc the heads. As for the block should I put it a TDC and measure the deck to pistons? What are good heads for this.
Here's a site with instructions: http://www.hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/CCHeads.htm The only thing is they use a 50cc burrette, and the 75-6 heads originally were around 78cc's. Thus a bigger liquid measuring tool would be desired. Good heads would be the aluminum ones being offered by both TA and Bulldog. At the same time, there are good, worked, used heads popping up for sale by those that went to the aluminum heads. Or read the page I linked above regarding the stockers and which are better.
Steve, thanks for the reply's. Good info on those sites, I'm going to cc the heads, but I may do it a little different. The pistons I listed are flat tops do you know how far down the bore they would be on a stock deck. The TA Buick performance parts look awsome!
If a stock looking appearance is needed, it's a big plus to use the TA heads. They are almost identical to the iron heads visually. Mike spent some time on these heads to be sure. Beautiful pieces
Since the engine has been sitting you should perhaps reexamine the bottom end. Most often machine shops, unless expeienced in Buicks, will not get the main and rod bearing clearances correct. This can be a critical mistake in the low engine oil pressure wil ensure.
Thanks for all the reply's, I am definitly going to pull the pan and check out the clearences and put in ARP rod bolts. Are there any good books out there that give all the clearences and specs for the Buick. Do you guys think the rings would go bad from sitting that long too. I'm starting to get the Buick bug, going to have to finish the Rat or get two engine stands!
Joe dont make the same mistake that a lot of guys have made. make sure you have the rods resized when you install the new arp bolts. the cap alignment can change just from a simple rod bolt change.i believe the same goes for main studs.
With a high lift cam, you will need to check the clearance between the valve spring retainer and the top of the valve guide (including the oil seal if any). The valve springs should be checked for coil bind too. Piston to valve clearance check wouldn't hurt either when you are ready to assemble.
