Hesitation, sputtering, and backfires oh my!

Discussion in 'The Mixing shop.' started by Illswyn, Jul 29, 2004.

  1. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    I accidently did that. :Dou: How can I fix that? I turn it both ways, It doesn't do anything. Which way is tightening? Thanks

    Slawek
     
  2. RagTop69GS

    RagTop69GS Cruzin Motown ~Top Down

    Secondary air valve adjustment

    The correct adjustment on the flap is 1/2 to 1 full turn after the flap touches the stop. Set it only tight enough so that you don't bog on WOT :3gears:
     
  3. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    Today I set the secondary spring tension to as much as it can without the spring poping out, and it still does the same thing even when I had the tension loose.

    What could be the next possibility? I'm starting to think fuel isnt gettin there. I have a new fuel pump. I think it's float level. I set the float level according to the 455 level (this carb is off a 455) , but this is a 350GS we're dealing with? Since the 455 need more gas than the 350, shouldn't it be enough for the level I have it set now?

    Thanks for the help so far, we will figure this out! Need more tire rubber!, J/k :3gears:

    Slawek
     
  4. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    Please help, I'm totally stumped.

    Slawek
     
  5. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    stumped

    O K what are you stumped about? give as many details as you can. :pp
     
  6. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    Ok, What I'm stumped about is the secondary studdering. I tried the spring adjustment, didn't work. Cap, roter, wires, plugs, didn't help. Switched coil with different one, didn't help.

    ^^^^Thats what I need help on.

    Take note of:
    Thanks

    Slawek
     
  7. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    eng cut out.

    If you can find another carb and switch it out to see what happens. There is a possibility that you are getting fuel thru the primary barrels and not the secondarys. another possibility is this, didyou put in new points and condenser and if you did are they gapped correctly? Email me and give me your phone no and I will call you to discuss this thing.
     
  8. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    Doc, i PM'ed you.
     
  9. TXGS

    TXGS Paint by numbers 70 GS 455 4spd

    It will make it backfire... Trust me!
     
  10. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    What Now?

    Alrighty, I haven't been to the board lately, I have been trying to fix my car sputtering problem, I have changed: Cap, roter, wires, plugs, points(at 17thousanths), condenser, coil. I tested the compression in all 8 cylinders, they were all 145-155 psi exept one, which was about 125.

    I don't know what to do now. I think I'm gona change the float level higher. Or could it be something in the fuel line that is'nt gettin enough fuel to the carb on time?

    Thanks, I have done what you guys have told me so far.

    Slawek
     
  11. 73 Centurion

    73 Centurion Well-Known Member

    It's been mentioned several times, but have you had the carb rebuilt? You've hit all of the easy fixes, it might be time to look at the carb.
     
  12. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    Yes the carb has been rebuilt, what in the carb could be causin the problem?

    Thanks!
    Slawek
     
  13. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    Anyone?
    Thanks
     
  14. beatlebuick

    beatlebuick beatlebuick

    Engine boggs under load

    All these ideas are all great. I think it may be the fuel tank pick up screen in the tank. You may be picking up rust in the tank.The engine will idle all day long, but once you put the engine under load where more fuel is needed, the pump starts sucking faster causing the screen to collaps. When you shut the engine off the pressure in the line eases and the screen unplugs. Just a thought.
     
  15. PolishBuickGuy

    PolishBuickGuy Buick Noob

    I changed the carb to a true 350 carb, and it fixed the problem, now I have to get the timing right. What degree should it be good at? I think I have it at 5* now and it basically sucks.. bad under acceleration. When I set it above 6-8 it would ping a lot. Could it be because I'm using 87 octane gas?

    Now I have a new problem, I flushed my radiator, and put in a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water, and now I have a leak!, from the water pump. Should this be fixed imidietly or can I drive with it for bit, it doesn't leak that bad.

    Oh yeah, I forgot, I got a letter that I have to go take emmisions test, I though cars over 30 didnt have to do it, BTW, I'm in Illinois. Should this car (1970 350GS) pass the test easly, is there anyway to "tweak" the car so it has a greater chance of passing? like leaning it out or something?

    Thanks for all the replies about the carb problem.
    Slawek
     
  16. Shrav

    Shrav Well-Known Member

    I don't know your engine (so hopefully someone who does can chime in here!) but the emissions tag on my '71 Centurion says MINIMUM octane rating 91. Back in the days when I had my '80 Trans Am I would set the timing according to spec and then keep advancing it until I got the most rubber from it on take off. It would be a hard hot start but I was more concerned about how much tire I could leave down back then!
     
  17. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    back

    Hi lad, I am finally back home, good to see you fixed the carb. You need to fix the leaking water pump. The shaft can break off and the fan go through the radiator. Major bucks when that happens. not hard to do.
     

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