Should I use High Tack sealer on Fel-pro head gaskets? They are the blue gaskets that look like they're steel core with some kind of material laminated to them. The parts store guy says no sealer put them in dry and others say use sealer o No:
I've tried both ways myself, using the spray on High Tack. No problems. I'd use the directions on the packaging. Only my opinion though.
Hi Guys, Jay....as long as both mating surfaces are clean, flat and straight then no additional sealer is needed. Just make sure you do not fall for the advertising hype of them being a "No Retorque" head gasket....it's just NOT true! You need to retorque until the point in time when you check them and you get no additional movement. By that I'm talking about making a reference mark on either the bolt head corner or stud not corner and a spot on the head itself before breaking it loose, backing of approximately an 1/8th of a turn and then retorque to spec. You will then see how much more it turns as the gasket takes it "set" and compresses. Once you get to the point that there is no further advancement of your marks at the specified torque setting then you know you have reached final torque and you are good to go!:Smarty::TU: PS....don't forget the lubricate of choice for the spec's you are using not only on the threads but also under the head of the bolt or nut of the stud as this has all the bearing in the world on your results!:Smarty: Hope this helps..
I deffinitely second a retorque. No matter wether they are no retorque gaskets or not. Had a motor leaking all over the place using these. They were all loose. I wouldn't use anything on the gaskets either. Just an opinion.
Thanks guys. I will be retorquing them reguardless of what Fel=Pro says. Can I drive it before it gets to optimal retorque or should I wait till it takes it's set. Given the choice which is a better lube to use on the studs moly lube or 30wt oil ?
i use the spray on sealer just so the gasket sticks to the valve covers when you take them off , it makes its much cleaner that way .mike
Hi Jay, I would do at least one retorque before driving (overnight). Then take it thru a couple of driving heat cycles (warm up/cool down) then retorque till no more "movement" as described above.:TU: If you have A/C this can sometimes be a slight hassle back by #8.:Smarty: Usually the torque spec's that come with your studs will be given for use with 30w oil. Hope this helps...
