What should the side clearance on the rods be in my 455? Please give range. I've got between .0013" to .0015", and am curious to know how much this clearance effects overall oil pressure (vs main and rod bearing clearances). I've not seen much talk about an oil slinger, I don't have one and was wondering if I should be using one. I have the double roller timing chain and TA advance retard gear, no dist. oiler and a thrust washer behind the cam hub (previous cam walk problem). Recommendations? Thanks.
There was an oil slinger in my 455. Unless some modification has been somehow made to your 455, it should have one. In my 1970 chassis manual, one of the only surviving sections on 350 and 455 cid engines clearly shows Figure 60-245A for a 455 cid engine in section 60-71, that shows an oil slinger installed, and step 4 under the installation of timing chain, under the same section, states, "Assemble slinger on crankshaft with I.D. against sprocket [manual's paranthesis] (concave side toward front of engine)" my manual also has this info for engine dimension and fits (this is the 1970 manual, don't forget): b. Connecting Rod Specifications bearing length: .821" bearing clearance (limits) .0002 - .0023" end play (total for both rods) .005 - .012"
Craig, I think you need the oil slinger. Without it, the balancer might hit the timing cover because it sits to deep on the crank snout, the oil slinger spaces it out. I read that somewhere, sometime on this BB.o No:
What exactly does the oil slinger help lubricate? I thought all oiling was from the top down. I didn't have any problem with the damper hitting the timing cover (I think it was close). My `72 Chassis manual does not mention the oil slinger at all.....but has this diagram? Anyone have one they don't need?
Craig the slinger does two jobs really. It provides some slung oil lubrication to the timing chain and gears aswell as the fuel pump eccentric and it also provides a barrier for all that sloshing oil from slamming up against the front oil seal. The slinger aswell as the crank gear are really close to the oil in the pan so the slightest movement will throw oil everywhere. Not to mention the slinger also acts as a spacer for the harmonic ballancer so that the crank pulley is in alignment with the waterpump pulley. The slinger is less than a 16/th in. thick but everything matters in our motors. Good luck with yours, you've seemed to have had a lot of problems with that thing dude!o No:
Oil slinger I'm not sure, but I thought one of the slingers functions was to help control how much oil actually gets to the front seal. I may be way off though, I've ran both with and without a slinger, when I didn't have one the seal had a leak. Doug
Re: Oil slinger I've heard that too. I am running the neoprene seal instead of the rope seal, probably helps with either. Let me know :TU:
Year One have one for the 350 part# 2349N - 2.95$ Maybe they have one for 455 as well Or the 350 part could be made to fit
Slinger Craig, Send me your address and I can mail you one on Tuesday if you don't have one yet. Tom Rix
Craig, I looked but I can't find another slinger laying around. I have misplaced it or something. I'm sure there was one on my old motor when I swapped engines earlier this year. I'll keep looking if you don't get one someplace else. Doug
No problem Doug, thanks for checking. I think Tom has one he will be sending on Tues. You guys are great THANKS!
After reading this post I realized I don't have an oil slinger as well. Rivman73, are you interested in selling me one as well? Does anybody have a line on new ones? Thanks a heap guys.
Here is the neoprene seal in the timing cover. It was installed so the open section is facing towards the front of the engine, and I think it's correct because it also has the steel cover plate towards the block. My concern is the deformation of the steel cover plate, it occured during previous installation. The inner diameter section of the steel is bent down (not flat any more). Could this deformation reduce the sealing pressure significantly? Should this seal be replaced?
Sealing pressure is a combination of the shaft outside diameter being sealed vs the seal material inner diameter interference and the pressure of the seal lip spring. Pull the lip of the seal that contacts the balancer sleeve twords the venter of the seal, and you will find the spring. Since the diameters of the sleeve being sealed and the seal material cannot be significantly altered, the spring, and the tension it adds to the liop, regulate sealing abilities. BMW motorcycle rear main seals usually leaked. Changing them is a real pain. One good fix was/is to take the replacement seal and pull the spring out of it, cut at least 10 coils off the spring seal, reinstall. We also did this to fork seals as well. Look at the spring. There is a flat cut end and a tapered end, and it "unscrews" from itself. Cut and deburr the flat end, twist back together by turning the ends counterclockwise, then together clockwise. The closed end of the seal should face forward in the timing cover, with the lip of the seal tapering from the flat closed face inwards. If the picture shown is of the INSIDE of the timing cover, the seal would be installed backwards.
This makes sense, but I thought the steel face of the seal should face the block so pressure can be applied to seat the seal into the cover. I completely agree on the closed section of the seal towards the front (so any pressure pushes to help seal). Another thing I thought of today. Since I don't have a oil slinger (yet), wouldn't the lower crank gear pull the chain back towards the block due to slight mis-alignment? Could this cause the cam to be pulled back against the block, a contributer for my previous cam walk problems?
Or does the gear go on first and the slinger go on the outside? It looks that way in the diagram above.
a pic.. here ya go bud.. slinger on the outside.. and yes.. I did flip the picture over in my photodraw program.. it was taken of the motor upside-down. No, I don't have chairs stuck to the ceiling.. :laugh: JW
