This started w/having Brian rebuild the rear, which is done & ready to install (all new control arm bushings, new brakes/rblt. wheel cyls., new shocks, springs, etc.). Engine & trans were already rebuilt and car drove/stopped/etc. It'll be nice to have a functioning e-brake too being a 4-sp. Goal is to get the car reliable, not to restore it. Someday that'll happen but for now it's the only one that's drivable so... You kinda know where this is going... While the rear is out, it's much easier to get the the rubber tank lines & really the tank should be drained anyway. Been 2 years since I started the car and I think the fuel in there (Stabil added at the time) is 1½ yr. older than that. Plus it looks like it's never been out and maybe I'll get lucky & find the (correct) POBF! All new fuel lines wouldn't be a bad idea either. Well, the steel brake line should probably be replaced too now that I look at it & think more about the above goal of the car being reliable. I'd rather not splice the line although I will (correctly) if need be. I don't have a lift and the car is kinda crammed in a tight spot w/no rear so can't really move it. Currently on stands & I could probably get it a little higher if needed although w/no rear... Of course front end sheetmetal is installed but front bumper is off. Car could certainly use body bushings too. Now we're getting deep into mission creep. I'd love to patch/paint the car too but... Question is how far does the body need to be raised to get the new brake line in & can it be done w/o loosening the 4 front body mounts? My concern is the front end sheetmetal binding if the whole body isn't raised even if the FE sheetmetal were left attached (which I know can be done). I could probably even remove the core support bushings which would give the FE sheetmetal a little wiggle room to pivot. Or am I better off just splicing the brake line & being done w/it (for now)? Although not sure about getting to the clip that holds it on either. This is why I have the "tear the whole thing apart" mentality but I just can't on this one.
You're already making this too much of a project. There is no reason to replace those lines unless they are leaking or rusted all to hell.
I agree, my car was a 69, when I go it I replaced the rubber hoses and inspect all the steel lines for rust, to include draining and inspecting fuel tank. I’ve been driving now a few years with no issues
I would loosen the pass side body bolts and remove the driver side and rear. I would lift mainly on the diver side rear enough to clear those lines. You should not need much for the brake lines. The fuel lines are the ones that go over the top of the frame. I think there is only one bolt & bracket above the rear control arm.
Me, make a project more complicated? I resemble that. What you guys are saying was my initial thought. Last week I went to remove the rubber brake hose and not only was the fitting smaller than orig. (seemingly from corrosion) but then I started thinking about that line. Car isn't a rust bucket but isn't a SW desert car either plus brake lines can & do corrode from the inside out. I can see not necessarily needing to replace the steel fuel lines but that brake line is more concerning. Thanks Nelson. Was thinking lifting from the back & hadn't considered lifting one side. Probably a better idea.
Actually, the brake line doesn't really go over the frame now that I look at it more closely (I just stripped 2 frames so would think I'd have realized this). Got the one clip unbolted from the top of the frame that holds all three lines - Thought about just cutting the clip but figured was worth a try. Getting that bolt back in should be interesting. Complete brake line looks quite doable w/o lifting the body at all.
I will be tackling that pesky clip tonight when I run the new rear line. I remember doing it on my 70 skylark, but don’t remember putting it back in as I bent a custom line for the big brake setup. I’ll let you know how it goes lol
MUCH easier w/o the rear/lower control arm/e-brake cable in the way & would be even easier w/o a muffler right there. I could sit up in the wheelhouse & easily see the bolt between the frame & body. Open end wrench from the inside. The clip sprung open just enough that had to compress it to get the bolt out. Good luck!
On my wildcat, I swapped brake and fuel lines, just used NiCopp. I just replicated the bends in the old lines I removed. Not too bad.
I wouldn’t do it unless absolutely necessary. You’re asking for a project to go sideways with removing body bolts.
Thx. Pretty sure in looking @ it closer that I can do just the brake line w/o lifting the body at all.
Took me less than an hour last night to remove the old line and position the new line (haven’t installed it to the hose or prop valve yet). I used a ratchet wrench and pry bar to give me additional room from the frame to the floor. I had to bend up the new line a little to clear the brace that runs from the upper to lower control arm but other than that it was pretty easy. <— saying that now because I haven’t reinstalled the top clip yet lol
Nice! That brace is out on mine too & just dug out the new line I had this morning. Someone helped themselves to my 9/16 Snap-on line wrench & I was hesitant to cut the old line until I was sure but had pretty much decided to & nkw based on your experience I'll go for it.
Where did you guys buy the new lines? I need to do mine. I thought a read a thread on here saying you have to lift the body? Glad that is not the case.
I got mine off inline tube. Went with regular steel over stainless. I believe convertibles have specific lines, or at least inline tube has a specific listing for them. I bought mine off eBay, it was free shipping
Inline (@ToddsGS is a dealer) or Right Stuff (at least they used to). One of my cars came w/all new lines and I bought a full set & partial set for my other cars from a board member. Convertibles must be different because of the frame boxing.
