While investigating leaks and putting on a new pan/gasket/filter, the car is still bleeding trans fluid. I'm pretty sure its coming from the speedo cable and dip stick / modulator area I was able to tighten the speedo cable connection a good 1/2 turn so that has decreased a a lot, I have new o-rings on order for that But the dip stick is siliconed in! highly suspect uzzled: So before I remove this dipstick tube I have to get all that silicone off as I don't want that dropping into the pan. I got a chrome TH400 dipstick, hoping it fits as well as a OEM piece. uzzled: The drip could also be the modulator...while there Ill install a new one in case that's the leak, new modulator has a new o-ring Am I going to need to adjust the new one? any input is appreciated .
Most vac modulators are pre-set. The adjustable ones will have an instruction sheet to tell you how to "fine tune" it, if needed.
Thats good! I hope to just pop the new one in and be done with it. Hopefully the new dipstick goes as easy.
Jack it up and suitably support just the passenger side to change the filler tube and modulator. That will help to minimize fluid loss. Do the same on the driver's side for the speedo. If you try to do it with the car level, expect to lose 1-2 quarts of fluid.
I don't lose any fluid. I pull the plug and drain the pan first. Put the fluid back when done. Oh, yes I did install a drain before putting the trans in. Bruce Roe
I did the modulator without draining anything. I had the new one and the tools ready and made the swap as quickly as possible. I think I lost half a quart or less. The adjustable modulator starts out at "turn clockwise until it's fully closed, then turn counterclockwise 2 full turns for a nice setting) The instructions will come with the modulator but this gives you an idea.
As far as the modulator goes, I wouldn't try fixing something that isn't broken. First road test the car. If you aren't happy with the minimum and part throttle shift points, then you can adjust it.
The modulator has a small o-ring on it which can leak if not tightened down all the way or if deteriorated. I replaced mine because the original one blew up. If yours still works than I agree with the post above. Don't replace it if you dont need to. If you find fluid in the vent line though than it does need to come out.
Thank you guys Sounds Logical. I'll just do the dipstick first Hopefully the chrome one is a similar shape to the original, it has to be right? I have a new modulator o-ring coming in the mail, maybe Ill use my original modulator and a new o-ring. I'll be updating the 'what are you working on' thread this weekend with my results :laugh:
Curtis, My take on the same issue was to drop it off at a local trans. shop. Called ahead so he had the parts on-hand. Left it for the day. Picked up that evening. All external seals replaced on the transmission (5 or 6), new filter, fluid etc.. Memory is telling me just over $200.00. No more leaks.
yeah that crossed my mind... but I called the few shops that are close to me.. and none of them wanted to do it once I told them what kind of car it was.. I guess they just like newer stuff. :spank:
If the torque converter front seal is bad, the trans has to come out. If its good, all the other external seals can be changed on the car, save some bucks. Might take some new parts; the shifetr rusts, and the speedo gear (plastic) wears. Bruce Roe
Pretty sure the front pump and torque converter seals are good, no drips from that area... I'll know tomorrow hopefully if I can get some time
I'm done! I was out early this morning, jacked the car up on the passenger side so trans fluid would move to the drivers side. Replaced the dip stick and tube with a chrome piece. Instructions said to put a dab of RTV around the rolled bead stop on the tube before insertion.. Maybe that's what the last installer was trying to do, they used way too much. I added RTV, had a nice seal as the tube fit in. Also put a new o-ring on the modulator I was able to remove it very easily, but with the new o-ring it had a firm resistance as I put it back in. fingers crossed. Got another half turn on speedo cable connection so its TIGHT now. That was dripping while I was working under the car, but after this, none dripped. hopefully my leaks are solved...or at least slowed to a drip every now and then ou: Also put on the front fender braces on so that the wider tires would not rub and Ive not driven it but it looks to have solved that too! My daughter has Karate now, and Dance after that, maybe some mini golf after that if she's good. I might get a run tomorrow! Still have to rebuild the carb...not looking forward to it.. I'm very intimidated not having taken one apart before... but that's another thread.
I did take a picture while I was working on it... and the speedo continues to drip... 3 inch puddle already.... ugh uzzled:
Someone in your area has to at least know of a trans. shop that can fix this for you. There are a couple (maybe just one ?) seals that need a certain tool to install correctly. Dipstick has an O-ring as a seal.
I called the closest ones... and as said they didnt want to do it... I may call some others on Monday But I do have a new o-ring for the speedo too, maybe tonight/tomorrow I'll get some time for that. New dip stick has not dripped, neither has the modulator.. but we'll see what happens over night and the next heat cycle
