How to change motor mounts without a hoist?

Greetings all,

I've been hearing a click from under my hood when accelerating from a stop, lately. I've checked my bell-housing and transmission mount bolts, and everthing seems tight. I also checked the bolts on my existing motor mounts, and they're tight, too. I'm thinking perhaps my stock mounts are cracked or rotted, and that's the source of the noise.

I have a NOS set of mounts to put in...but no engine hoist. I've seen others jack up the block from underneath, and slip out the old mounts to swap in the new ones, but I haven't done it by myself. Does anybody have experience making this repair, and have a good system for doing it? Any suggestions would be welcome.

Cheers.

 

I've never had a problem placing a 4x4 under the balancer and using a floor jack (I've never used an engine hoist for motor mounts..). Some folks suggest using the oil pan, which I've also done ('69 Firebirds have a cross member support under the balancer), but it makes me mighty nervous compared to the balancer. If you use the oil pan, make sure the piece of wood is large enough to stick out past 3 sides of the oil pan.

 

Thanks, I've used a 2x4 wood block under the tail shaft of the transmission when changing out the tranny mount, but not sure of the proper placement for the engine when doing the motor mounts. Is it best to jack up the block from the center, and do both mounts in one shot, or better to jack up one side/do one mount, and then the other side?

 

Probably easier to do both at once. Just make sure to give the engine a bit of a push once up all the way to make sure it's not going anywhere (it shouldn't). Typically the trans is up against the floor pan and the engine is pretty well locked into place once all the way jacked up. Might not hurt to throw a 2x4 under the cross member and engine of the side you are working on just incase the jack lets go.

 

Are you sure it is not something like brake shoes shifting?

 

The most important thing in all this is to make sure that the engine/trans/whatever is blocked up so that there is no way that you can be injured if something comes loose. You don't want to have to deal with broken/mangled fingers/wrists.

 

Yes, I am sure it is not brake shoes, because I have no brake shoes up front, anymore. I converted the front wheels over to disc five years ago.

 

I use a thick block under the oil pan. I don't like using the balancer. Be very careful so you don't damage the radiator shroud with the fan when you raise the engine. You may have to take the shroud loose.

 

Agreed. I plan to have all manners of chocks and blocks in place before swapping out the mounts in the event of something giving way and that 650 lb. chunk of Flint iron coming down on my hands. I plan to put the front wheels up on ramps to elevate them above the floor, then creep on under and prepare to jack up the block and swap out the mounts. Slow and steady wins the race. I can easily see the bolts from underneath, and I can work them loose, jack up the motor, and brace the block to get them out, then swap them for the new ones.

 

I agree...I have a brand-new fiberglas shroud in place. I can undo the 3 bolts on the cover, then raise it up...or even take it out completely.

 

Just don't give it a 'lot of gas'. I had a bad mount and, when checking, gave it a bit too much peddle and took a piece out of the fan shroud.

 

When I had carburetor trouble on my trip to Colorado springs last year, I did witness the block do a wicked shimmy side-to-side when it stalled out. Now that I'm back home, I live alone, and have nobody mechanically inclined to watch while I do your brake-stall test. I agree: it is the easiest way to prove that my mounts are truly shot...if that block walks its way 1/2 way out from under the hood when doing it, it means the rubber is ripped and it's only the steel hooks keeping the mounts in one piece.

 

Lucky for me: my shroud didn't even get a mark on it. Thinking more about it: maybe my mounts *aren't* the problem. I can raise the hood, look through the gap and watch the air cleaner during the brake stall, and see if the block does a big shimmy when under load forward or reverse. If there is no major motion, then my mounts are still intact.

For piece of mind (Iron Maiden rules), I'd like to swap out my mounts, anyway. They are 48 years old, and deserve a rest.

 

I had a motor mount bad enough that I kept blowing header gaskets. If you have the hood open you may be able to see from behind the wheel how much the motor is moving while loading up the driveline.

 

Or, you can just put a block of wood on a jack under the balancer and jack it up slowly while watching the motor mounts and it will become very apparent if one or both are broken. You'll see the split line open up well before the engine or fan hits anything.

 

always the lay wide boards across the fenders and use a floor jack as a lift......... [ wide board even load , 2x4 could dent ]

 

I think it's time to change my mounts out. I've been hearing a click and feeling my driver's side muffler touch the floor under my feet on acceleration. I did a brake test in drive once home with the hood up, and the engine gained altitude on the driver's side.

I have a set of NOS mounts (part number 1236965 orange) will put in once the engine cools off...