I have an old-school ship model kit I want to put together. Pre-dates the interwebs. Balsa is marked but not perforated. Thinnest sheets can be cut with scissors. Thicker ones are tough even with a brand new exacto knife. Thoughts?
I would score it on both sides once or twice then, a little harder on one side should break it off without splinters. Use a super sharp exact0 and practice on a piece of scrap if you have one. Looks like complicated patterns so, scoring on both sides might be difficult. You could trace a pattern on one side, drill several locator holes with a real small drill bit then repeat the pattern on the back side.
I think there is a little wire saw you can use. Sort of like this? https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-...keywords=balsa+wood+saw&qid=1675303053&sr=8-5
They have a hobby saw that exacto knife companies make. Or a coping saw to get it close. Or band saw and sand to perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Pu...rgid=pla-1216825023255&psc=1®ion_id=674469
getting angry and smashing it would be so much simpler. And more in character. Contemplating the scroll saw...
I have a friend..........He is one hell of a model builder and industrial designer. He is also one heck of a drummer in bands. If you are in his area, look him up. If you want tips for model building, I can get you in touch. https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http...yjvhmlQu9r4RW3U0OBjUGqt4IKMZWKabvHrH9Cpb3gvW9 Troy
I second the recommendation to look into Micro Mark. From a quick search: https://www.micromark.com/MicroLuxsup-reg-sup-Variable-Speed-Multi-Saw While the hand held coping saw would work, your pic certainly shows only a small fraction of the number of complex pieces you will need to cut out. In my opinion, “power tools are indicated here.” (Unless you find doing it by hand REALLY therapeutic… LOL!) Not to mention, as you proceed you will no doubt find the need for more of their “specialty” (read: small) tools. P.S. As we are already “off topic” (non-Buick…) This thread made me realize I need one myself! I am starting a Trumpeter 1/200 U.S.S. Yorktown (CV-5), who’s hull is sadly incorrect in shape. Much “plank and frame” correction is needed.
I am probably completely out of my league here, so all advice appreciated. Background: I run the US office of a Danish ship design firm. I was clearing out a friend's storage locker and came across this viking ship model, probably 30 years old, from the viking museum in Roskilde, DK. i am morally obligated to givee it a shot.
Does it have directions and pictures? Probably gonna be easier in todays times as we now have much better and faster drying adhesives.