How to install distributor in right direction?

• I set the balancer at 8* BTC
• Lifted the distributor and rotated it 180 and reinstalled – confirmed it pointing to #6.
• Turned the key and no sign of firing.

• Removed the valve cover.
• Ball of tape over #1 hole.
• Pulsed the starter until the tape blow away.
• Did this two times just to be sure since it was a new method with tape.
• Same results like yesterday; balanser stopped shortly after 0*. And both #1 valves were closed.

• Pulled up the distributor, visually checked for mechanic errors inside it and reinstalled on 10* BTDC (with streched chain) and pointing almost as like Jim advised.
• Reinstalled all spark plug wires carefully after numbers.
• Checked so the coil was correctly connected.
• Installed the valve cover.
• Turned the key and same result as before, I had to give full gas to notice RPM rising.
• Second time I released the key the carburetor sneezed fuel.

(you can click on the word "vimeo" to see full size on their site)
[video=vimeo;188403859]https://vimeo.com/188403859[/video]

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• I installed my old coil. And kept running the starter some extra time and it started.
• Smoother than before. Lots of smoke the first minutes.
• I guess the cylinders could been wet with oil after my clumsy fill-up.

It handled acceleration better than expected even if it backfired thru carb and died two times
when I surprised it with full gas. ~25psi oil at idle.

• Connected my timing light and it was of scale, like, I dont know; 10* A-TDC.
• I wasnt expecting this, I thought it would stay on 10*, Is this right or wrong?

Very disappointed to see that it still makes dramatic jump on the higher RPM.
I have removed some plastic from the rotor so the weights should not stuck and added grease. Which others have done also with the same problem.
- Regret buying the expensive MSD 8552 distributor.


Questions:

• Is it supposed to go off scale A-TDC ?
• Anyone rebuilding original distributors?

[video=vimeo;188427500]https://vimeo.com/188427500[/video]

 

It's going to run really really hot if the timing is that far retarded.
Advance it to the desired "B"tdc spec and you will see a very different engine.

 

Its correct that I don’t understand or follow every detail when I’m nervously doing things the first time alone. Others in the city doesn’t install like this, they follow the service book or just simply freehand it, but I trust you guys more. They ask why I set it 10* and the other degrees, and I don’t know what to answer them, I just belive it will kick-ass. And I thought it would stay on 10* when it was running, not showing like 10* clockwise out of timing scale. I haven’t read that you should adjust timing quickly after start up. So, I had to ask if this was normal and if I should continue setting the final timing or if I should lift the distributor once more.

 

Yes, its covered in the guide, and I have already installed the right bushing and springs with help from the forum. Just didn’t know that the initial 10* became so drastic different when I started the engine. And it makes sense now when I think about it. I was just exited standing there with the engine running so I didn’t think logic. I thought for the moment it should show the same when I started the engine.
I will however respect that I have asked to much so it annoys, I will try more myself with the help from locals.
Thanks

(And there must be something wrong with this distributor, not a normal curve with any of the springs)

 

Probably. Or I wouldnt understand it in my own language either.
This project has been standing still one year and I have forgotten many details about timing.
Engine started, I got excited and didnt think. Spontaneously I thought it should show 10* with the engine on also but it makes sense now when Im calming down. and some memories comes back from setting my friends cars timing this summer which confirms it.
Sorry for overreacting. Just got sad when I felt rejected.

 

No need to remove distributor.

 

People always get spun up on making the rotor point to number one when it really doesn't matter where the rotor points as long as the #1 wire is on the terminal where the rotor is pointing with the engine at TDC.

 

1. Apparently you had a failed ignition coil, which fooled ALL of us. You got it figured out, and now the engine runs.

2. The timing SHOULD NOT be 10 degrees clockwise off the timing scale. This can happen based on inexperience in setting the static timing--I guess. The point is, now that the engine runs, ADVANCE THE TIMING, using the timing light, so the initial timing is back where it should be. In normal operation, the timing mark might go off the scale COUNTER-clockwise, which would show that the distributor is providing additional advance. Going off the scale the other way is entirely wrong.

Static timing--aligning the tooth of the reluctor with the magnet in the pickup coil--is just a "get-it-close" sort of arrangement. With practice, you would get better and better at positioning the tooth and pickup coil--getting within a degree or two is fairly common. Maybe, you were just that far off getting the reluctor aligned. Maybe. IF (big IF) that's all it was, turn the distributor, advance the timing, be impressed with about twice the horsepower.

HOWEVER

There's another possibility. If the pickup coil polarity to the MSD spark-box is backwards, the MSD will fire the coil many degrees retarded. I've heard 14 degrees...but I've never verified that. So (MAYBE) you need to reverse the pickup coil wires, and the timing will magically advance 14 degrees to about where it should be.
[EDIT] Nuts. Thought I was on to something, and then I figured out that you have a Ready-To-Run distributor that doesn't use a spark-box. Therefore pickup coil polarity shouldn't be a problem because it would be wired directly into the in-distributor module, instead of being wired into an external spark-box.[/EDIT]