And it is Frame Pads. I pulled the 350 out of my '71 Skylark yesterday; today I removed the 350 frame pads and installed new frame pads for my freshly built 455. Based on the experience, I may have a tip or two to offer those who haven't yet had the pleasure of doing this themselves. First, safety!! Ramps or jackstands, block the wheels, set the parking brake...you know the drill!!! Then, a round of penetrating oil for everyone! :beer There are three bolts per side. Using a flex adapter and about a 6" extension should allow you to get a socket on each through the access holes in the frame between the A-arms. Getting the old bolts out really isn't that bad...the angles and kinda' rough, and visibility is a bit rougher. But if you carefully position yourself underneath, you'll eventually find the right viewing position. The BBB frame pads are installed in different holes, forward and above the small block position. Look for "L" and "R" on the back of your new frame pads...you won't want to have to re-do your installation! When installing your driver's side frame pad, you will want to manipulate the fuel lines so they are not in your way! Otherwise, you can play with your socket & flex all day long, and never get the bolt through the frame at a right angle. Also, use a screwdriver through the top/rear bolt hole in the frame pad to hold it in place during installation of the first bolt...which SHOULD be the top/forward bolt. This one is tougher to reach by orders of magnitude than the other bolts. So do it first, so you can move the frame pad around to receive it as necessary. So how long does this process take? I started at 1:30 hoping to be inside for the start of the NASCAR race @ 2:30. I missed the start by almost 2 hours. I spent nearly 3 hours with the R&R of the frame pads. And it's a very good thing that I've already got my new engine sitting on a stand--along with all the hours & dollars spent scouring the internet to collect the necessary parts. Because if I'd experienced the frame pad fiesta earlier in the project, I'd have dropped the 350 back in and told my wife I was only kidding about the engine upgrade. I'm hoping that I'll hear from one or two of you that I'm through the worst of it, and the rest of this project will be a walk in the park!! :TU: I'm going to take a day or two to finish cleaning up the engine compartment, installing my new wiring harness and cleaning/painting brackets. I'm hoping to have a friend over sometime mid-week to help me drop the new 455 into place. I'm getting very close........... By the way; over the past few weeks I've posted a lot of questions and you guys have provided quality answers. The information you've shared has allowed me to plan and execute the project thoughtfully and so far, efficiently. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I try to complete the new engine installation and get the car back on the road. And I hope I don't have to offer embarrassing confessions of forgotten steps or costly mistakes. I appreciate all the help. Jay
you still have a few hurdles left. getting the engine to line up takes a little time, the headers are a big pain to get all the bolts in. on the drivers side i had to ding the header to clear the steering shaft. you also have to watch how close the header comes to the proportioning valve on the frame. if your reusing the th350 trans you may have to clearence the croosmember for the headers. i had to make new trans cooler lines because the headers. after all that the only problem you will have is traction :3gears:
350 swap i am in process of doing a 73 century rite now, i removed engine last saturday and took 350 mounts off frame. took me about 1 hour to get them off the frame, was royal pain in the ass.cleaning engine compartment now. you might want to check your flexplate on your 455 mine was not drilled to bolt up to 350 converter. just drill 3 new holes.not sure about headers i am useing stock manifolds.less painless.all in all mine should go smoothly except for maybe putting motor back on mounts and wiggilying it back on tranny.then just bolt everything back on and hope for the best. see yah Ray ________ DEPAKOTE LAWSUIT INFO
Good info Jay. Thanks for sharing this. I'll be doing the exact same thing hopefully within the next month, just working on a tranny now. Keep us posted and good luck. By the way, are you using a th350 or 400 Jay? Just curious. Jim
Hi Jim...I'm using the TH350 for now; my priority is to get the new engine installed & running, so we can enjoy the car before Winter returns to Minnesota! I have a stock replacement flexplate from TA Performance--no problem mating it to the original torque converter. Future upgrades may include TH400, re-gearing the rear, discs up front, etc. Jay
I have read to leave the motor mount bolts loose on the engine block to help with lining up the two long mount bolts that pass through the mount halves. Also think about which way those bolts go as you may not be able to remove them once the headers are on if the nut is on the front side. I had to use a prybar and a junk screwdriver to get my 455 transplant to sit in the mounts the first time last year. Keith
In my experence it is best to do the R&R of the frame pads with the lowerA-arms removed. If that is not an option use a "crows Foot" through the frame.
I went through that frame pad process 15 years ago and I remember it being the toughest part of the swap.
not far behind ya I'm pretty close to swapping my 1973 Century's 350 to a 1970 455. I'm sure the mounts, headers, brackets and pullys should be REAL fun!
