I need engine compartment pics for a '71 Riv please.

Discussion in 'Chassis restoration' started by Poppaluv, Aug 22, 2013.

  1. Poppaluv

    Poppaluv I CALL WINNERS!!!

    Not going concours, just want as much stuff painted right so I'm not embarrassed to pop the hood.
     
  2. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    What things do you need painted? You may assume a picture may be correct but things may be wrong.
     
  3. Poppaluv

    Poppaluv I CALL WINNERS!!!

    Dude, everything needs some attention. Examples: my lazy ass painter didn't maks the bay, so overspray is every where! He also never painted the fenders where they bend into the compartment by the hood edge.

    I need to clean the inner renders, hoses of primer oversparay. I need to repaint the Aircleaner, a bracket tor two. New mc and the metal piece that sits atop the radiator. New stickers all around. Repaint the hinges inner fenders and fan shroud and under hood..


    Lol what's the best way to accomplish these tasks?


    Hence , I could use some pics :)
     
    69WILD likes this.
  4. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    [​IMG]


    This is on my 71 Formal Coupe, but it's the same thing under the hood. Don't mind the color of the engine...the camera sucks. It really is red.
     
  5. robs71redriv

    robs71redriv robs71redriv

    Riviera finishes are not all the same as other models (especially the A bodies)
    Check the example 1H000EXp car page galleries at the boattail registry lots of detail engine pics in restoration and engine chassis folders
    http://boattail-riviera-by-buick.co...tion=vinsearch&doSearch=Sort/Search&q=&page=1
    PS it my riv so (the fuel line is temp and wrong and the water pumpb should be red) - I have hundreds more pictures as it came apart and got redone let me know if want specific close up - most decals out theres are made for A body - hard to get one with the right part numbers on them and many are wrong - took three ties to get right trunk jack instruction and emissions , I'm working on a detailing and marking guide too.

    You need to be member to view full members pages - and you lots of downloads with info you wont find anywhere else -- plus free access to the All Buick libraries, decode /option guides are there too (you get pdfs copies when you complete your members page0 to min along with many many other buick pubs including manuals - ama specs slaes materials etc -

    • Boattail Registry Members,
      Build their own Registry Members page - Designed to chronicle/ showcase and document the history and restoration of thier Boattail Riviera.
    • Receive many Free Boattail Specific Downloads & Benefits once they complete their Registry members pages - including;
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    • May take part in our Boattail Registry Facebook Group.
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      - Previous Member Shared Downloads contains GB's of info that cannot be included on the site and some manuals and guides in fully searchable PDF format.
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      � just ask to have your registered Riv listed.
    • Are able to comment & reply to other members comments about their Rivs. (temp turned off)
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    for those who dont own a boattail check the All the Buick libraries page for how gain free Library access by becomming a contirbutor and see whats in the libraries and a preview of how things work.
    <center> [​IMG]</center>
    1971 BUICK Eng Features and AMA Specs GM Corp
     
  6. Poppaluv

    Poppaluv I CALL WINNERS!!!

    Dang Adam, I didn't know you owned a boattail!!!! Is that gloss black on rad cover , aircleaner, etc?

    Thanks to you too Rob, I'm a lapsed ROA member. :(
     
  7. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    I don't have a Boattail...that is my Centurion. Under the hood there should be no difference in finishes.

    Air cleaner is gloss black NOT satin black. Pet peeve of mine...

    Most of the other black stuff under the hood is a semi-gloss, or slightly less gloss than that. That's a whole other debate. I've been through several of the 71's, and pretty much know them like the back of my hand. Most of them have been good original examples to go by, as well.
     
  8. Poppaluv

    Poppaluv I CALL WINNERS!!!

    As my car is so far from stock or original, I an thinking, if it's black it's gloss. OR , as a whole, that much gloss could look off or dated. But that's the picky graphic artist in me...

    Imma try to do as much as possible with eh engine in place/ fine line tape aluminum foil and patience could make for a nice engine bay.

    This is a pic from last months show. I got a buzz and Talked into" popping the hood. MY local c lub's yearly show is early Oct. I'd like to just clean it up.

    What's the best way to renew and remove primer overspray?


    [​IMG]
     
  9. robs71redriv

    robs71redriv robs71redriv

    Yes no gloss black 70% semi gloss.
    No gold cad on The Rivs - the booster and master cylinder cover are silver cad , latch and most bolts (fender rad cover etc) are black poshate, hinges, A/C hose brackets zinc posphate

    here a pre resto ref
    43400434.jpg 16 june 2007 as we get ready to go  001.jpg
     
  10. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member


    There might have been plant-to-plant differences, but I find it hard to believe they would make changes like that just for the Riv. I do understand that the boosters were more of a matte finish than what you see on all the restored A bodies...and they aren't even the same type of booster, but I have had several originals apart and they have gold color.

    I would bet money that would get docked points at a 400 point judged meet if you did not have a gold booster on your boattail.

    Do you have photos of a black phosphate hood latch? (I am referring to the latch that is attached to the core support)
     
  11. Poppaluv

    Poppaluv I CALL WINNERS!!!

    I take it Eastwood would carry what I need. what can I wrangle at the local paint aisles?
     
  12. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Pretty much...

    You can find good stuff at the parts stores. The Zone carries Rustoleum now, which is actually a pretty tough paint. It takes forever to dry. Duplicolor stuff is quick to dry, but scratches easily. O'Reilly carries Duplicolor.

    Eastwood will have everything you need, but you are going to pay for all of their specialty paints.
     
  13. robs71redriv

    robs71redriv robs71redriv

    09 aug 07 engine bay almost done for now 001.jpg after cleaning most plated parts just cleaned and clear coated
     
  14. robs71redriv

    robs71redriv robs71redriv

    before and after cleaning

    27 july 07 engine partway together - bay almost ready for paint 019.jpg 28 july working away 005.jpg 43400251.jpg
     
  15. robs71redriv

    robs71redriv robs71redriv

    --*if it was dirty when the overspray got on there - engine degreaser /varsol /kerosene/BBQ lighter fluid go thru as needed (varsol etc not good on rubber parts/ seals/decals BBQlighter might get the decal claen without removing print - maybe if your careful ) may take it off (stiff brush then brass brushes) and preserve the original finish on many of the parts .
     
  16. Poppaluv

    Poppaluv I CALL WINNERS!!!

    Ill look , but between you two, ya gotta know some AutoZone, etc knockoffs for some of the Eastwood paints: gray phosphate, cast metal or other non-gloss black. There should be a list!

    Thanks guys. Bought h of your cars are bautiful.
     

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