I am repainting the engine compartment in my 65 Wildcat before I install the new motor. There is a portion of the fender that is under the hood that is body color. I have the wheel well out and the hood hinges off so now is a good time to repaint that portion. The car was originally white and has been repainted red. The portion under the hood was also repainted red , but poorly done (more like sloppy) and I want to clean it up. So, I have throughly cleaned, lightly sanded and rattle can primered the portion to be painted. I had the paint color matched with PPG Deltron DBU. I plan to mix it 50/50 with PPG DRR1185 reactive reducer and spray it with a cheapo aerosol can with the baby food jar under it (Preval Spray Gun). Then I plan to go over it with Plasti-Kote aerosol clear coat. Should I wet sand this between primer/base/clear? I have never painted a car before, but I have painted many small parts with a rattle can and had good results. I am fairly confident if I have the right materials and tools I can do this. Am I wasting my time and money here...is it doomed for failure? What should I do differently. Thanks Rick
Compatability Test Rick, Some paints don't react well with each other. I would at least check to see if your paints will be compatable on a test panel first. You don't want to find out the hard way that they are not. Lay down some of that same rattle can primer on something, anything expendable and preferrably metal. Let it dry overnight. Then spray on your color. Let it dry completely while checking for anything weird going on. After it has dried, color sand just a portion of it. then put on your spray-bomb clear coat over both the sanded and un-sanded areas and watch for any other changes. Good luck.
Yeah what he said! Did you kow that Dupont has some really nice rattle can primer that is a etch primer. I can't think of the other company right now but there is someone that makes a good 2k primer in a can. It'll go under PPG just fine too.
If your color is a base coat clear coat system do not sand the base color, just let it flash off then clear coat.
What is "flash off"? To all- -do i need to apply heat from a space heater to cure? -once the clear is down and dried do I wet sand (2000 grit) then polish compound? Thanks Rick
I like this idea. I have several "pretty" coke cans that are an exact match to my console and a/c vent frames. :laugh: Rick
What I mean by flash off if you are using base coat clear coat let the base color dry about 30 minutes unless its below 60 degrees then a longer dry time is needed. As it drys the gloss will disappear, when it is completely flat finish give it another 15to20 minutes tack it off and clear coat.
By saying tack it off, I mean take a tack rag and gently wipe it off to remove any mini particles of trash. Be sure and wipe very gently in one direction, and that should take care of it.
What do I use to clean up this DBU? Mineral Spirits just make it glob. I am assuming there is little to no shelf life once the paint is mixed with the reducer. I've got paint down and clear down. Do I wet sand with 2000 grit or use polishing compound? Thanks Rick
Mineral spirits will not clean it, lacquer thiner works well. As for water sanding that depends on what your final goal is How rough is the paint now? Is there any trash? Do you want a show finish in the painted area, many variables. How much clear did you put over the color coat? This will determine how much water sanding you can do. I assume you are not familiar with painting so I am pretty sure it is not real slick, so I would start out with 1000 grit paper then 1500 finally 2000, while sanding keep the area wet, I like to use dish washing soap in my sanding water it helps the paper not clog up and helps with sanding scratches. If I can be of more help PM me Mike
