How bad is bad? I think I know the answer. Trying to get a game plan on future bodywork. Really want to put the vinyl top back on but maybe not after this extensive of bodywork since the top is what caused all these issues. A pillars first... I have found reproduction pillars, but looks like it would have to be one heck of a body guy to replace these properly. Full quarter panel replacement? $$$$ Have also sourced the rear window channel pieces, have been told a nightmare to replace. The filler panel that goes between the window and the trunk lid has been more difficult to source. Have found them for a Chevelle but not sure if all A bodies are the same, doubt it. Super concerned about the rear glass blowing out going down the road when I get her running. Getting ideas for now, not prepared to drop $15k + to get all the metal replaced properly. Local Hot Rod shop quoted $5k just for the window channel.
That damage is rather extensive on the surface and likely equal or greater below. I'm not and expert here and still new to these cars myself. I believe you are looking at "tens of thousands of dollars" in retail metal work. If that is not a budget you can work with I suggest you take a different approach. We have all seen cars get torn apart by highly motivated people who become overwhelmed and underfunded and the cars sit for decades. If you are new to the hobby and the Buicks concentrate on cleaning, repairing, and sorting out the existing mechanical systems. Get the car mechanically correct and enjoy the learning process. Not every car needs a shiny restoration.
I am dealing with a similar but worse situation. If you are capable of doing the welding/grinding yourself... Maybe. I think rear "Tulip" panel is typical. and you can use the Chevelle metal that is available new for this. Chevelle roof also apparently works (Auto Metal Direct/https://www.c2cfabrication.com/collections/roof/products/1968-1972-buick-skylark-roof-panel-complete). Still a lot of labor to cut/repair this. It sort of looks to me like someone else "repaired this" before? We have many Pro Auto Body/restoration people on here including Hugger and Smartin, to only name two. They have much more experience repairing this situation. SO listen to them...
Maybe think about a stripped down Skylark body that just needs paint and switch parts around. That is some serious metal work needed to fix your car right.
I saw your other pics in your "newbie"/introduction thread. I can't tell 100% but it almost looks like the rust damage you show is "localized". In other words, the pics in your other thread make it look like THE REST OF the car may be very "clean" and solid. Of course, a super close up inspection would reveal any additional "bad" areas. With that said, the rust you show is extensive and won't be cheap to fix.....especially properly. Again, would be interesting to know if by chance the rest of the car is actually very solid.....and the damage you have was from a vinyl top and bad storage/environment....and lots of years of this exposure/conditions. Putting a new vinyl top on shouldn't be ruled out. If the repairs are solid and the car is going to be garaged......MUCH lower chances of any problems later on.
Yeah, if it were me, a lot would depend on the condition of the floor/trunk/wheelhouses/dropoffs. If you gotta do all those on top of the A pillars/quarters/roof....that $15k might be closer to $20-25k. The filler panel is different from the Chevelle. The glass is shaped/curved differently.
Your best chance to keep costs down is a long shot. In today's parts car world. I would look for a donor 2-door car with good roof and window channels and cut it as far into the door frame and down into the quarter as possible. You will find the under structure of yours will be weak and suspect as well. There are a couple of members here from out west that may be able to find you what you need but transportation is the next hurdle. Everything can be done but the costs ad up quickly even when you can do some or all yourself. Good luck on the project.
In this thread: https://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/68-skylark-rear-deck-filler-panel.371685/#post-3231937 Duane explicitly states that the Tulip panel fits. He also says the glass is the same? Which is odd.
Unfortunately....with the full 1/4s being pretty much impossible to find and discontinued.....you got a situation here. Doing sail panel sections...and 1/4 patches..or a tabco skin would be a nightmare and to be honest wouldn't be much better than doing packing the holes with fiberglass. The Apillars are easy to replace....but to what end? You will still be feft with what's there everywhere else. Replacing the body most often these days is just swapping one problem for another....if you can find a FACTORY PAINT car and in this market you're talking 10 to 15k ....now granted to repair car...will cost similar money and some shops will want up to 40k to make it solid again....so money saved...but a more realistic number is 15 to 17k to replace the metal ..that's where I would be on it. But finding the 1/4s are gonna be the issue No worry about putting a top back on it...they rotted because the cars were sit out in the weather or damp conditions ant driven....that certainly wouldn't be an issue after you spen 60k building it I would imagine. As much as I hate to say it or condone it.....I eould blast the areas....epoxy prime then dura glass the holes up and put a top back on it....the repair WILL FAIL.....AND ITS BUTCHERY,....BUT...it's either that or you scrap your project.....buy a 15k car to replace it....spend 20k to make it just solid then another 20k on paint......or spend $3500 patching it back up ..it will last 10yrs if done properly and possibly 20yrs if kept dry and done correctly and the backside is sealed from the elements. Now I wouldn't go advertising I done the last option.....BUT..it's not a rare car..GSX or something..it's just a run of the mill GS that you want to knock around in and have fun. So do as you wish...but no shop will do it this way...correctly anyway....but it's a straightforward deal and when the top goes on you 99 out of 100 will know no different if you do it yourself....you'll be saving your project and another GS....just if you sell the car...pleas disclose the repairs and document them with plenty of pics. If interested I'll reluctantly detail how to do it via PM don't need a cheat sheet of how to correctly do butchery for all to see. But for your situation it fits
There are few spots that will need some metal welded in obviously and I would patch in what's feasible or can be obtained....but there's no sense in goin to crazy with metal when you know the other 60% is still gonna end up duraglass tho
They discontinued them I'm pretty sure ....Joe at the parts place bought the tooling I thought...just looked they are showing availability..at 1k each.....so definitely not AMD pricing
I’ve never seen the problem with Re bodies. Would rather have a factory welded up body than an aftermarket shop welded body in a case like this. Better yet, an original different car all together….
I don't either....rebody never bothered me...as long as it's disclosed upon time of sale...no issues here.....nothing or no one beats factory assembly
I think he was talking about how the 70-72 Buick filler panel fits the 68-69 Buick cars as well, not a Chevelle panel fitting. The bottom of the glass is 100% curved differently on a Chevelle.
This reminds me of me neighbor Brett, who put a new top on his 442. The new lid included the vinyl top! Amazing.
