Looking to see if anyone here has purchased the repro armrest (pad) for the "ironing board" style console. Wondering about the materials, fitment, appearance, etc. They sell if for $149...their PN is CP10723S. Don't know if this link will get you there but here goes: https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/pr...k-with-the-correct-grain-paint-to-match/55589 Thanks
No problem.........I have the shorty type console so the part I linked to is applicable here. I mixed the two console names up. Thanks and still interested in any feedback on this repro part.
Fitment into the factory steel backing plate that SHOULD mate to the new lid is horrible,if you delete the backing plate it fits MUCH better but losing structural integrity . To edit: Backing plate isn’t the correct word instead it is the factory “cradle” that the reproduction pad rests in and is fastened into the cradle from the backside of the factory hinged lid bottom with its stock screws. The underside of the reproduction pad fits okay in the back(towards back seat)of the cradle but the area of the pad in the front where you grip the factory plate and pad to lift when opening your console is not correctly molded to mate to the factory stamped riser that allows your hand clearance to grip the steel plate rather than just pulling on an unreinforced pad (if you delete the cradle so it fits flush). Pretty busy currently but will try and post pictures of how far off the bottom of the pads male seat is to rest flat (too narrow at the least) to the female seat (no wise cracks from peanut gallery please,that’s my job lol) into the factory steel plate. Only initial cure I saw was to reshape this area of the pad with an Exacto razor so it would lay flat but haven’t wanted to do that yet till I study it more before potentially ruining the new foam pad. Again it “will fit” WITHOUT your steel cradle but without the cradle and pulling up on just the foam it will eventually compromise the pad and crease/split the pad somewhere near where you are fatiguing it from general use imho.
Okay I have to correct some of my comments from above. Without the factory steel backing plate that mates to your hinged lid and cradels the pad the repro pad fits flush when I pressed down on it without much force. The correction is that the chrome hinged lid without the factory cradle DOES still allow you to pull the lid up without also gripping the pad and sits flush (again without the factory cradle sandwiched in between the pad and hinged chrome lid. The only question remaining for me is securing the pad to just the hinged lid with the factory screws mounting into foam. If I decide to ditch the cradle and mount the pad to the lid I would at least use silicone or other adhesive to help prevent the pad lifting. Here are pictures:
WOW! - what an answer John!! Thanks VERY MUCH for the excellent description and the GREAT pics. You really laid it out in detail and those details are REALLY helpful. I'm into "the details" so you're really speaking my language with all that info. As you describe and show in the pics it looks like the front edge fitment isn't that great and attempting any "re-forming" is out of the question. That part is likely a molded urethane and I also noticed some exposed pores in one pic that shows the front edge close up. Same thing I've seen in the bucket seat repro headrests (but much more numerous in the headrests as well.....a REAL MESS). Comparing the repro you show to the original I have here....the grain on the repro is bit more "pebbly" and pronounced (even checking against less worn areas on the original) with the original being a bit more subdued and "flatter". You likely saved me some serious headaches. The original piece I have here is pretty nice but I saw the repro when checking around and figured, WTH....might as well ask here and see if the repro guys had REALLY nailed it on this piece. Close but no cigar. Thanks again John for taking the time to provide all the details and info. I'll go back now and stare (at pics) and read again. Above and beyond in my book.
Morning Patton, I am very humbled by the compliments Sir : ) Before the final injuries that sidelined me for sustained dependable & consistent work we worked with textile quality control equipment as well as building our own machine and these pads would have never gotten out of our shop with my name on it with a visible portion of the factory design (the metal pad cradle) needing to be deleted to compensate for improper fitment. It makes me wonder if the reproduction company might have been copying the factory design incorrectly due to a purchased console that the provider did not include the cradle with because as mentioned earlier, it does fit very close when I remove the cradle from the equation but it also screams out incorrect design to anyone familiar with the factory visible cradle sandwiched between the pad and lid from the sides, back and even more visible looking down on the lid from a seated position in the vehicle as one reaches down to release the latch to gain access to the consoles interior which is the most pronounced area that the factory cradle is exposed. I still am thankful we have something to work with but I am again concerned with any support the cradle provided as well as an area that the factory applied adhesive to seat the pad into rather than it now needing to be removed to sit flush and a comparable adhesive being applied directly to the chrome lid only . I will look at my original lid later today to see if there were additional provisions impregnated into the factory pad bottom to secure the pad. Again as mentioned earlier I would be hesitant to depend on fasteners that could “saw” their way loose out of the reproduction pad under normal use and road vibrations. I have heard the return policy of some of these companies can be difficult so I will be working on correcting what I am left to work with before applying a dark adhesive to take some strain off the lid to pad mate as well as looking into any potential options to press female fasteners into the underside of the reproduction pad mounting holes to accept the factory screws to aid in hopefully reducing the possibility of pad lift. I will also do a side by side comparison of the grainular surface of the reproduction next to factory Type 1 & 2 pad surfaces Will get back with you soon. Kindest Regards, John
Wow, it looks like TPP needs to re-make their mold. What a terrible job. I wonder if a pro upholstery shop could make one at a decent price. Make the core out of wood, then cover with 1/8" of foam and vinyl. To make several they could make a mold and build the core out of wood/fiberglass. Great review John! Apparently the metal cradle should not be used for this pad. Maybe that's what TPP intended? How noticeable is the poor fit when viewed from the drivers seat? Is it a big deal?
I haven't seen one of these factory pads or the repro one either. Observing John's pictures, just wondering if that cradle was supposed to be molded inside the repro pad?
Sorry for the delay on side by sides with an original as things have been busy around here but got a chance tonight. The grain pattern might be good enough but it is a little hard to tell as worn as my original white top is. I did notice however that the middle channel that extends on either side of where the emblem mounts is incorrect. The original lid channels "squared sides" (for my lack of a better word) and squared end were not matched by the reproduction that is a "V channel" that comes to a point. An attractive design but a dead give away on reproductions before even beginning scrutinizing the pattern or lid material (notice the vinyl covered surface over foam on the original?). That said I am glad to have something to work with, my biggest challenge I haven't had time to address is a clean seating mount with the original Buick steel seat combined with the reproduction pad. If and when I figure that out without reshaping the back of the reproduction pad I will post it unless someone beats me to it. As I said though I am still very glad another Buick part is available for our Buicks plus I enjoy a challenge solving problems,just wish I had a sacrificial reproduction pad instead of my one new one to see how it reacts to heating,reshaping etc.
Your doing it wrong .You don't use the old steel backing brace you throw it away with the worn out console lid.CARS lid doesn't use steel but plastic .Use sheetmetal screws not the original ones as they will enlarge and gouge out the plastic hole.They fit just fine use an extra screw under the latch to tighten up the fit around the front corner.
